The Mapuche lonko (leader) Millapán led the last battle against the invading Chilean army on November 5-6, 1881 at Wallmapu. In the midst of those blood-soaked fields, the descendents of the defeated Millapán have brought forth their traditions, nourished by the history of their strong nation. Guests can visit the village Milla Ruka to get a feel for the Mapuche way of life. Go for a day trip, sample classic Mapuche cuisine and rent a horse to ride to Chol Chol. For a more immersive experience, spend the night with the kin of Millapán.

Location:
20 kilometers (12 miles) northwest of Temuco
Temuco, Chile

Other Activity

Getting There
By car—From Temuco, take Avenida Pedro de Valdivia out of town. At Kilometer 11 (Boyeco), turn right to Conoco Chico. After 8 kilometers (.8 miles), turn left onto the Chol Chol-Renaco Pastales road for 350.

Travel Tips: Getting there by bus—From Balmaceda and Zenteno, take the Panco bus to the Renaco Pastales-Chol Chol crossroads, then walk the rest of the 650 meters (noon and 4 p.m., return 1:15 p.m. and 5 p.m., $3).

Price Description: $4; $5 with lunch; $10 per person for groups (minimum 10, with storytelling, dance and lunch). $20 per person for room and board. Horseriding $5 per hour.

Relative price: Mid-Range

Travel Skills: None

Browse the various art galleries, the Museo Regional de la Araucanía and the Museo Nacional Ferroviario Pablo Neruda; hike through Monumento Nacional Cerro Ñielol; hop the Tren de la Araucanía steam train.

Currencies accepted
Chilean Peso

Contact Information:
Phone: 9-995-0122 / 8-578-6837 (cellular)
E-mail: millaruka(at)remove-this.hotmail.com
URL: www.millaruka.cl

By Lorraine Caputo

Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began traipsing throughout...

Created: 15 Dec 2008

Updated: 06 Jul 2009

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