About 15km north of Tongoy, Guanaqueros is the smaller of the sister beach towns with a few restaurants and hotels open mostly in the summer. The oceanfront of Guanaqueros is dotted with quaint cabañas and family-friendly camping sites, and much of the beach is private-access only. The Bahia Club (bahiaclub.cl, camping@bahiaclub.cl, (56-51) 395), for example, has spruce cabañas with private beach access, and wooded camping sites with showers, bathrooms and picnic areas. The gracious Spanish-Chilean owner will show you where the site’s two snowy owls sleep during the day. Book accommodation early if you visit in the summer as rooms and campsites go fast when the weather is nice.

No one should leave Guanaqueros without stopping by the Centro Gastronónomico “El Suizo” in the center of town. Here, each tiny seafood shop has its own particular specialty, but be sure to try a few seafood empanadas, which are some of best you’ll find anywhere.