After months in Peru or Bolivia, be prepared for the sticker shock coming into Chile. The lunch special (usually served 1-3 p.m.) costs $2.40-4.20 for a simple two-course meal (soup and main) and $4.20-20 for a more elaborate affair. Most places do not include drink. À la carte is much more expensive. Seafood is, no doubt, the thing to try—and often makes an appearance on even the cheaper eateries’ daily specials. Some local delicacies are empanadas de jaiba-queso (crab and cheese pies) and sopa marinera (seafood soup). The nightlife in Arica goes on until late, with many staying open until the cocks begin to crow (5 a.m.).

To eat on a budget, look for the cheaper diners around and inside the market areas. Some allow you to order only the plato fondo, or main dish. The old mercado central is at Sotomayo 340 and the lager Mercado Colón at Calle Colón and Maipú. Express Líder supermarket, at 18 de Septiembre and Baquedano, is open Monday-Saturday 9 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fish markets are on Máximo Lira, next to the Arica-La Paz train station, and on the muelle pesquero.

A final note: Beware the establishments that write on the bill a suggested tip. Not only is this considered crass on Chilean standards, it is also illegal. Tips are purely voluntary in this country.