Humberstone

Salitrera Humberstone was one of the most famous—and largest—nitrate mines in northern Chile. Founded in 1872 by the Peruvian Nitrate Company, by 1889 it had a population of over 3000. It later changed its name to Salitrera La Palma in 1894, and again in 1934 to Humberstone, in honor of Santiago Humberstone who had developed the Shanks method of refining nitrate ore. By 1940, over 3700 workers labored here.

Humberstone gives an inside look at what a salitrera mine the virtual city these places were. The main street into the compound is lined with the higher-ranking employees’ spacious homes with private bath. The plaza has a market (with artisan and souvenir stalls), church and hotel. On the north side is the 800-capacity theater that hosted European operas and Hollywood movies. To the west is the former almacén, or general store, now a museum with exhibits of the daily life and 1907 Escuela Santa María Massacre.

To the southeast of the plaza is the block housing for single male miners. In each of these claustrophobic rooms, measuring only five by four meters (16 by 13 ft), lived several men. At the end is the common bathhouse used by the residents of the 62 rooms of each street. Behind this complex were the married workers’ homes and their shared outhouses.

Administrators, the doctor and other upper echelon staff of the Humberstone lived around another plaza, just below the hill where the refinement plant was. These spacious homes had all the amenities. On the north side is the oldest building, the Casa Administrativa (1883), which had lodging, a library, billiards parlor and game room. It reflects the typical British overseas architecture of the era, with a broad veranda.

A path leads up to the mechanical heart of Humberstone atop the hill. The field is strewn with a miscellanea of abandoned machines. Inside the refinery, signs explain the nitrate processing. Beyond are the barren fields where miners scraped the ore from the earth’s surface. Another trail leads up to the top of the torta de ripio (waste ore pile). From atop you can see the entire Humberstone compound and a modern-day nitrate mine to the south.

Location:
Ruta 5 (Pan-American Highway) and Ruta A-16
Iquique, Chile

Historical Building Types:
Nitrate mine

Getting There
Humberstone is located at the junction of Ruta 5 (Pan-American Highway) and Ruta A-16, which goes to Iquique (47 km / 29 mi). Public transportation goes from Iquique to Humberstone: Santa Angela ($3.80), or take any bus or colectivo going to Pozo Almonte,

Travel Tips: Humberstone was declared a Monumento Nacional in 1971 and a UNESCO World Heritage of Humanity Site in 2005.

Chilean poet Pablo Neruda came to the salitreras of the region in the 1940s, and documented the horrendous work and living conditions through his poetry, especially in Canto General.

Price Description: Adults $2, children (to 12 years old) $1. Ticket includes Oficina Santa Laura.

Relative price: Budget

Open Hours from:Daily 8 a.m.

Open Hours to:Daily 6 p.m.

Travel Skills: None

You Need to Bring: The air is dry here, so be sure to bring plenty of water. Protect yourself from the sun as well; use a hat, long sleeves, sun screen and sun glasses.

Swim, sunbathe or surf at Cavancha and the other beaches in Iquique. Stroll down Paseo Bolognesi, visiting the historic houses and museums. Head out to the arid pampas to visit the old nitrate mining oficina Santa Laura, or to check out Gigante de Atacama and the other geoglyphs decorating the desert hills. Visit historic Pisagua. Soak in the hot springs at Pica or Mamiña.

Currencies accepted
Chilean Peso

Contact Information:
URL: www.museodelsalitre.cl

By Lorraine Caputo

Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began traipsing throughout...

Created: 30 Jun 2009

Updated: 01 Jul 2009

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