Colombia-Ecuador Border Crossings

By Lorraine Caputo

Border crossings to Ecuador

By Land: Rumichaca

Rumichaca, on the Pan-American Highway just south of Ipiales, is the principle border crossing between Colombia and Ecuador. From Ipiales, catch a combi ($0.80) or taxi ($3) from Calle 14, near Carrera 10. You will be dropped off at DAS, or Columbian immigration.

The complex also houses the offices for those crossing in their own vehicles, a casa de cambio, bathrooms and an Ecuadorian consulate. Colombian migración has one line for entry stamps and another for exit.

The process is usually quick. If entering Colombia, you will probably receive only 60 days—though you may be lucky if you ask for 90.

Money changers work in the parking lots on either side of the bridge. If you use their services, check all calculations and bills, and count your money carefully. As you cross the modern bridge, to the west you will see the natural rock bridge Rumichaca is named for.

For centuries travelers used that stone to cross the Río Carchi—even Simón Bolívar and his minions. On the other side of the river is Ecuador’s migración. Again, usually 60 days are given upon entering, but go ahead and ask for 90. From the parking lot across the road leave mini-buses ($0.75) and taxis (collective, $0.85; private, $3). The mini-buses and collective taxis will drop you off at Parque Ayora in Tulcán (Calle Venezuela and Avenida Coral); to arrive at Tulcan’s bus terminal, take a city bus ($0.75) or walk the ten blocks. A private taxi from the border will take you directly to the station.

Immigration for both countries is open 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Transportation fares on either side can be paid in dollars or pesos.

By Sea: Tumaco to Esmeraldas

For a different adventure in making the journey to Ecuador, consider going by sea. Service has much improved in recent years. No longer do you travel in launch through mangroves and into the open sea—now it is done by cargo-passenger boat.

Servimar runs a ship from Tumaco’s puerto marítima on Isla El Morro to Esmeraldas every Friday evening, arriving in Ecuador Saturday morning; the trip takes ten to 12 hours. Buy your passage from Servimar’s office across from the maritime port, where the two palm trees are (Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-noon, 2-6 p.m. Tel: 09-2-772-5377). Tickets are sold all day Thursday and Friday, until 6 p.m., and cost $15 one way.

Reportedly the DAS office is Tumaco is now authorized to give entry and exit stamps. Its offices are located about 1.5 kilometers from the port, towards Isla Tumaco; it is the green-trimmed, yellow-ochre building opposite and just past the military base. You are responsible for going there before departure to get your exit stamp (or, if arriving to Colombia, for your entry stamp). These regulations can change, so check--you may have to go to Ipiales for the entry/exit stamp.

Boarding of passengers on the ship begins at 7 p.m. Friday night; departure is at 8 p.m. (or so). You will receive a bed (camarote) in a nine-bunk room. No food or drink is provided or sold; bring your own. Upon arrival in Esmeraldas, Ecuadorian immigration and customs will greet you dockside. Expect a very thorough search of your belongings.

From Esmeraldas to Tumaco, the boat leaves on Wednesday night, arriving in Tumaco on Thursday morning. The Esmeraldas agent is Sarjento Campaña (Tel: 72-26-09). Whether departing or arriving to Colombia with this ship, it is more convenient to stay at Playa El Morro, just one kilometer from the maritime port.

A third way exists to cross from Colombia into Ecuador, through Puerto Asís to San Miguel, then down river to Puerto Colón and La Punta, from whence buses go to Lago Agrio. However, this route is unadvisable at present time, due to the war between Colombian military and FARC forces. It was near here that in March 2008, the Colombian forces bombed a FARC base camp. Furthermore, one traveler who succeeded in crossing here reported he could not find the DAS office, and so was illegally in Colombia. Perhaps in the future, as the situation once more becomes stable, foreigners can journey safely through this region.