Not too far from Hacienda La Esperanza, along the Quebrada El CĂłncavo, is Cueva de Cuchumba. This cave with a waterfall within was once an important ceremonial center for the U'wa. It was here they kept the image of a woman on cloth that a tall white man with a long white beard, dressed in white, had given them many generations earlier. They kept a fire of wax and â€śfailejĂłnâ€ť illuminating it. In 1736, Padre Miguel Blasco was catechizing to the U'wa and gifted them with a small painting of Our Lady of the Rosary. The U'wa responded, "We already have one, much more beautiful and splendorous." The priest had the U'wa textile moved to the church in GĂĽicĂˇn, where you can see it today. The magical cave with its cascade bathing the stone walls is still there, though, near the Quebrada El Concavo.
From Hacienda La Esperanza, the walk takes about 10 minutes; from CabaĂ±as Guaicany, one hour.
A path from GĂĽicĂˇn also goes to the Cueva.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...