The Camino Real from San Gil to the Río Magdalena

I heard a bit of buzz from a friend in San Gil: Go trekking on the old camino real or Camino de los Guanes to the Río Magdalena. I checked it out a bit. Indeed, it appears you can follow the footsteps of the Guane ancestors, who had laid down this path, later used by the Spaniards. Here’s the scoop:

The stone road originally extended from Girón, near Bucaramanga, to Barrancabermeja on the River. In this modern era, the intrepid trekker begins the journey at Cabrera, from there it is a two-hour walk to Barichara. From Barichara to Guane is the most-trodden part of the camino (1.5-2 hours). The trail then continues to Villanueva (3 hours). Now comes the toughest part, through the Chicamocha River Canyon with a 1,000-meter (3,280-foot) descent and ascent in over 35°C (95°F) heat. From Villanueva, the road plunges to the ghost town of Jordán at the base of the cañón (3 hours). A four-hour climb brings one to Mesa de los Santos on the other side of the abyss.

The camino originally winded further, to the Río Magdalena. According to all sources, it is impossible to continue on from Mesa de los Santos. Some say it is because of safety issues, especially with civil war fighting, but others say it is because bridges no longer exist past this point.

Location:
San Gil, Colombia

Trekking

Getting There
Buses leave from San Gil to all the pueblos on the route, save for Jordán.

Travel Tips: Because of the on-going civil war in the region, be sure to ask about safety in each village before beginning the next leg. A guide is not necessary, though you will have to ask directions frequently. The entire trek will take two-three days. Accommodations and food are available in all the villages.

Price Description: The road is free; the only costs would entail transportation, lodging and food.

Relative price: Budget

Travel Skills: intermediate/somewhat difficult.

You Need to Bring: Water and water purification tablets or filter; food; hat, sun screen; equipment, if you want to camp.

Barichara and Guane are incredibly beautiful colonial towns; the latter has an interesting museum. Along the way are a number of petroglyphs and cave paintings: Piedra de Lubigara and Cueva del Pino (near Guane); Hato Viejo (Villanueva); La Custodia, Los Pozos and Cueva de Cartagena (Mesa de los Santos); and others along the Río Chicamocha, as well as Cueva Rica (Mogotes).

Currencies accepted
Colombian Peso

By Lorraine Caputo

Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began traipsing throughout...

Created: 06 May 2008

Updated: 06 May 2008

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