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Stretching from the southern edge of the Valle de Cauca to the border with
Ecuador, the Southern Colombian region contains everything your imagination can conjure: high-altitude páramo plains and snowy volcanoes, surrounded by
mangrove-filigreed coastline to the west and sultry jungle to the east.
Popayán is a beautiful colonial city, renowned for its Semana Santa processions. Stroll through the narrow streets, stopping in the numerous churches and several museums. Popayán serves as the gateway to some of Colombia's premier archaeological sites, both of unknown cultures: Tierradentro, brilliantly painted, human-carved burial caves; and San Agustín, many sites of incredible statuary. The surrounding countryside of both provides great hiking opportunities.
Between the two lies Parque Nacional Puracé. After hiking around the Volcan de Coconucos or scaling Volcán Puracé, you can soak your strained muscles in several local hot springs.
Further south on the Pan-American Highway, you arrive at Pasto. This city, overlooked by smoldering Galeras volcano, also has pleasant colonial-era architecture and plazas, as well as a Gold Museum (Museo de Oro).
Just north of the Rumichaca border with Ecuador is Ipiales. Eight kilometers away is the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de las Lajas, a neo-Gothic church spanning a river gorge. Also near Ipiales is the indigenous village Cumbal, shadowed by two icy volcanoes.
On the Pacific coast is Tumaco, a largely Afro-Colombian city. Birdwatch in the surrounding mangroves, scuba dive, go fishing, or just soak up some rays on El Morro beach. Tumaco is also a port for an alternative crossing into Ecuador, by sea this time.
The Putumayo is a vast expanse of near-pristine jungle stretching along the Colombia-Ecuadorian border. Accessible from Pasto, you can visit the country's largest lake, Laguna La Cocha.
Further inland is Puerto Asís, another border crossing into Ecuador, and Parque Nacional La Paya.
The entire region has experienced guerrilla and paramilitary activity in recent years. Please read the Southern Colombia Safety section.
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Hotel Belmonte
Doña Olga proudly states, "This is not a luxurious place. It's basic, secure, clean and cheap"-- and that's precisely what the Hotel Belmonte is. The rooms are simply appointed with classic, heavily
...Ipiales, Colombia
Hotel Capital
If you can afford to spend a dollar more, Hotel Capital is a comfortable choice for budget travelers. All rooms have common baths, but here there is deliciously hot water. The back courtyard garden ...Popayán, Colombia
Hospedaje y Restaurante Los Lagos
For those preferring to stay in San Andrés Pisimbalá itself, Hospedaje y Restaurante Los Lagos is one of several options. Located at the end of the village’s main road to the right, this ...San Andrés Pisimbalá, Tierradentro, Colombia
Hospedaje Lucerna
Austere on the outside, with only small lettering announcing its presence, Hospedaje Lucerna is big on service. Inside, the rooms are grouped around the flower-filled garden. All share the common ...Parque Arqueológico, Tierradentro, Colombia
Hospedaje Pisimbalá
Hospedaje Pisimbalá is another old stand-by for journeyers to Tierradentro. Also a small, family-run inn, this inn offers three rooms sharing a bathroom and three rooms with private bath. Only one ...Parque Arqueológico, Tierradentro, Colombia
Hospedaje Cambi
Just a half-block from Parque Bolívar, Magola Pérez welcomes San Agustín visitors to these inexpensive, simple, clean rooms in an old colonial building. Nearly all the rooms have TV and private ...San Agustín, Colombia
Hotel Los Ídolos
Hotel Los Ídolos is definitely the cheapest place to stay in San Agustín if you have a traveling partner. Be warned, however, that the rooms are claustophically small and stuffy, with only a small ...San Agustín, Colombia
Hotel Colonial
On the main street of San Agustín, right where the collective taxis and pick-ups arrive, is Hotel Colonial. Set in another classic, aged building, this inn tenders ample, tidy rooms with private or ...San Agustín, Colombia
Hotel Central
This other colonial-era-building-cum-hotel is tranquil, despite being on San Agustín’s main street. With a family atmosphere, Hotel Central is the preferred choice of some travelers, thanks to its ...San Agustín, Colombia
Hotel Yalconia
Hotel Yalconia is San Agustín’s oldest luxury-class hotel. Of modern architecture, this two-story building provides all of the comforts one would want while enjoying the wonders of this region. ...San Agustín, Colombia
Hostal Alto de los Andaquies
Camp Hotel near San Agustin Archeological area in Colombia, human historical patrimony with comfortable rooms suited to enjoy a calml and relaxing rest just by the side of the nature at The Andes ...San Agustín, Colombia
Popayán
The Pan-American Highway twists and turns for 248 kilometers (149 miles) north from Pasto, arriving at Popayán in the Valle de Pubenza. The landscape to the south, east and north of this city is
...Popayán, Colombia
Tierradentro
Deep within the heart of the hilly countryside around Tierradentro lies one of Colombia's great archaeological gems: mysterious subterranean tombs painted in white-black-red-ochre geometrical
...Tierradentro, Colombia
San Agustín
Like silent sentinels guarding the green mountains of southern Colombia, the pre-Columbian statues of San Agustín have long beckoned travelers to wander off the beaten track. The journey can be
...San Agustín, Colombia
Ipiales
A Sunday morning stroll around Ipiales belies the reality of this city. These now-quiet streets will soon bustle with travelers and merchants crossing the border, and Ecuadorian and Colombian
...Ipiales, Colombia
Pasto
Altitude: 2527 m, Population: approximately 400,000, City Code: 2 Atop a plateau surrounded by verdant hills to the East and Volcán Galeras to the West, is Pasto, 88 kilometers from the Ecuador ...Pasto, Colombia
Puracé
A road heads east from Popayán towards Parque Nacional Natural Puracé. After 18 kilometers (11 miles) it forks: one branch goes to La Plata and Garzón, the other to Pitalito. The largely unpaved ...Puracé, Parque Nacional Puracé, Colombia
Cumbal
In this small indigenous village on the altiplano, the Sunday market trading is still going strong. Stalls display fruits from highlands and low, or ponchos from local workshops. Doña Yolanda stops
...Near Ipiales, Ipiales, Colombia
La Chaza
Down the streets of an east-side neighborhood I hear what sounds to be the thumping of drums. It is coming from a fenced yard where four- to eight-man teams are hitting a tennis ball back and forth
...Pasto, Colombia
Piscina Municipal Las Moyas
You know, once the sun begins to shine in San Agustín, it gets down right hot. The perfect way to cool down after visiting the Parque Arqueológico or doing the El Tablón-to-El Purutal circuit is
...San Agustín, Colombia
Trout Fishing
Your fly makes a soft plop as it lands in the crystalline water of Río Aguasilencio--Silent Water River--or one of its tributaries. A subtle breeze passes through the trees and grasses, sunlight ...Coconuco, Parque Nacional Puracé, Colombia
Ritual de Refrescamiento y Limpieza
After months of being on the road, you may need to have Ritual de Refrescamiento y Limpieza done. The Refresh and Cleansing Ritual is an ancient custom of the indigenous peoples here that is yet ...Tierradentro, Colombia
Tejo
This Sunday afternoon that sign across from the market again catches my attention: Cancha de Tejo El Recreo. What in devil’s name is tejo? I walk through the courtyard to the rough, tin-roofed ...San Agustín, Colombia
Semana Santa
Easily the most important holiday in Popayán, and one that has been celebrated annually for more than 450 years, Semana Santa transforms Popayán into a colorful procession of Catholic tradition, ...Popayán, Colombia
Reservas Naturales de la Cocha
Since being declared a Ramsar protected area, local indigenous and campesino communities around Laguna de la Cocha have been taking an active role in conservation and the development of ...Colombia
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