Cumbal

photo by Lorraine Caputo

In this small indigenous village on the altiplano, the Sunday market trading is still going strong. Stalls display fruits from highlands and low, or ponchos from local workshops. Doña Yolanda stops stirring the helado de paila for a moment to serve me a portion. The copper bowl bedded in ice from Volcán Cumbal appears dull beneath today's clouded sun. On one corner of the plaza del mercado, some folks are already loading up on a chiva to return to their pueblos.

Cumbal is the place to be on a Sunday. Other days it's just a quiet village. But it's worth a stay in one of the basic hotels, to set your plans for visiting those two snow-capped volcanoes that you see towering over the hamlet early most mornings. To climb Volcán Cumbal (4,780 m), ask the locals to accompany them on their daily harvests of ice and sulfur. From the top you'll see the snowy peaks of Ecuador to the south, and to the west, a vast emerald jungle expanse to the Pacific Ocean glittering on that distant horizon.

To summit Volcán Chiles (4600 m), go to the village of the same name on the volcano's slopes. There you may be able to find someone to guide you. It should take about six hours to reach the apex, which lies on the Colombia-Ecuador border. Inquire, also, about the near-by hot springs. Aguas Hediondas, on the southern slopes within Ecuador, are literally boiling sulfurous waters set on a barren páramo plain where condors soar.

Location:
Near Ipiales, Ipiales, Colombia

Other Activity

Travel Skills: None

By Lorraine Caputo

Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began traipsing throughout...

Created: 07 Oct 2007

Updated: 18 May 2009

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