Camino Natural

Location:
Colombia

Trekking

By Lorraine Caputo

We sit on stones, our feet imprinting the cool moss. "How many roads are there going into the park," I ask the ranger.

"Three," she responds. Drawing a line in the air, she illustrates, "One along the north boundary, another along the south," she looks at me, "and a third inside the park."

"Inside the park?"

"Yes, the old Camino Natural, from San Sebastián in Cauca, to San Agustín in Huila Department. It's a pre-Hispanic road. Two days of walking, with an overnight in San Antonio. Well, only eight hours walking, but it's nice to spend some time to get to know the people. You can stay in their homes or camp."

"Is it safe to do now?"

"Oh, yes. The area is secure, and the path is of herradura, stone-paved. It had been used by the guerrillas, but they're now gone. You'll need a guide and a park permit, both of which you get from the Surandina office in Popayán."

Wow, an ancient road through prestine landscapes, from indigenous village to indigenous village, ending at the stoic statues of the mysterious Agustine peoples, the ancestors of the Nasa who live here. Yeh, that's an adventure that's awfully tempting.

Are you ready?

Travel Tips: A guide is needed. Contact Parques Nacionales Naturales de Colombia Surandina, in Popayán, to arrange the services of a local guide from the indigenous community, make a reservation and find out about present conditions. The park entry fee is paid at either Pilimbalá or Termales San Juan.

Price Description: The park entry fee is $7.40 for foreigners, $2.65 for Colombians.

Relative price: Mid-Range

Travel Skills: intermediate/somewhat difficult.

You Need to Bring: Camping equipment (tent, camp stove--no open fires are allowed, sleeping bag), water, high-energy food, warm clothing, hat, gloves, rain gear, strong footwear.

Parque Nacional Natural Puracé has other trekking opportunites to waterfalls, lagunas, thermal springs and Volcánoes, as well as birdwatching. Paletará and Coconuco villages have good rainbow trout fishing. In San Agustín and the surrounding areas are many archaeological sites.