

Be prepared to spend at least a couple of days in San Agustín. The area is perfect for hiking or horseback riding, with the reward of statues, tombs and petroglyphs. Some well-known sites include La Chaquira, Obando, Alto de los Ídolos and Alto de las Piedras. Take the challenge, though, to get to some of the less-visited ones, like Lavaderos or Alto de la Guacas. The Parque Arqueológico encompasses four sites and provides a good introduction. If visiting the Parque Arqueológico, Alto de los Ídolos and Alto de las Piedras, consider buying the specially priced combined ticket (Foreigners $14, Colombians $9. Children 7-17 years old, adults over 62 years $4.50).
The scenery is equally stunning with dozens of waterfalls like Saltos del Mortiños and de Bordones tumbling through the jungle to join the nascent Río Magdalena, to whose headwaters you can trek or horseback ride. Other adventures include walking the Macizo Colombiano or riding all the way to Ecuador on horse. Sports are not to be forgotten. There’s white-water rafting, a huge city swimming pool, and a Colombian favorite, tejo—with an interesting twist.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...










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