Ruin in San Agustín

By Lorraine Caputo

Be prepared to spend a good spell in San Agustín. The area is perfect for hiking or horseback riding, with the reward of statues, tombs and petroglyphs. Some of the well-known sites include La Chaquira, Obando, Alto de los Ídolos and Alto de las Piedras. Take the challenge, though, to get to some of the less-visited ones, like Lavaderos or Alto de la Guacas. The Parque Arqueológico encompasses four sites and provides a good introduction. The scenery is equally stunning with dozens of waterfalls like Saltos del Mortiños and de Bordones tumbling through the jungle to join the nascent Río Magdalena, to whose headwaters you can trek or horseback ride. Other such adventures are walking the Macizo Colombiano or riding all the way to Ecuador on horse. Sports are not to be forgotten. There's white water rafting, a huge city swimming pool, and the favorite Colombia layperson's sport of “tejo”—with an interesting twist.