Dulce de Pata

Other Types:
Culinary traditions

By Lorraine Caputo

On Calle 3, near Hotel Los Ídolos, doña María Córdoba passes the day seated on a stool. With two wooden paddles, she works a taffy-like substance into the perfect texture. Occasionally someone stops to buy a wooden stick or small cupful of this tasty sweet called dulce de pata or gelatina. You might be asking yourself, “But doesn’t dulce de pata mean ‘hooves’ sweet’?” And I would have to respond, “Yes.” You see, doña María boils cows’ hooves to remove the gelatin. Then she adds panela (raw sugar) and cooks it until it is thick and molasses-colored. She brings a kettle of this with her everyday and sits right here, working the liquid until it is that off-white taffy. Really, it is quite a treat. Go on, don’t be squeamish—try a bit.