Hiking to the Aguacate Tombs

Location:
San Andrés Pisimbalá, Tierradentro, Colombia

Hiking

By Dan Anderson

Historians and Indiana Jones types will enjoy hiking to the ruined tombs of Aguacate, near the towns of Tierradentro and San Andrés Pisimbalá.

Starting just to the left of La Portada bar/restaurant in San Andrès Pisimbalà, the four-hour trek climbs hillsides, traverses ridges, and climbs and dips until, astride a mountain, the path reaches the tombs themselves. It's easy to see why people with power once chose to be buried there: if you weren't going anywhere for a few million years, you'd want a view that good, too.

The tombs themselves comprise more than a dozen dramatic and massive holes in the ground, most of which lead to caves of various sizes. Some are painted, others have large columns, and a few are only filled with spiders and dirt. Many have been grave-robbed, and the site is less archeologically important than Segovia, but it is remarkable nonetheless, especially when you first suddenly see the tombs laid out before you, wrapped in an incredible vista.

The trail continues on, mostly downhill, and comes out right by the museums in Tierradentro. Luckily, the uphill neighbour of the museum is La Tienda Jugo Rico, and after four hours of walking, their delicious juices hit the spot perfectly ($0.75 for about two glasses, water- or milk-based).

The path is marked at most important forks, and wrong turns down unmarked splits never take long to terminate at farms or fields. Still, to save a bit of time stick to the larger choice when the trail splits.

If you want to keep hiking, you can continue back up to San Andrès Pisimbalà via another trail which passes by Secovia, Duende and El Tablon, the remaining sites. The second 'half' needs only two hours and isn't as beautiful, but is easier and is still a pleasant hike. Cross the main road and ask at the other museum, and they'll point you to the continuation of the trail. Both sides can be walked in the other direction, as well, of course. The museums and the three other sites require an inexpensive 3-day pass.

Getting There
From Tierradentro, go to San Andrés de Pisimbalá. From San Andrés, go to La Portage restaurant, and take the path just on the left.

Travel Tips: Wear suitable shoes, clothing, and sunscreen. Bring water and a camera. Expect a bit of mud here and there. Climb the hill, a bit after the tombs, that rises up to the right of the path: there are sometimes horses hanging out atop it among a smattering of trees.

Price Description: Free for the first four hours, roughly $3.50 to visit the other three sites, which are open 8:30 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Relative price: Free

Travel Skills: beginner/easy.

You Need to Bring: A camera (no flash in the tombs!) and a flashlight.