The main attraction of Tierradentro is its painted, pre-Columbian tombs. A trail connects four sites: Segovia, El Duende, El TablĂłn (which has statues stylistically similar to San AgustĂn) and Los Altos de San AndrĂ©s. Another burial, Aguacate, lies high in the mountains. The village of San AndrĂ©s de Pisimbalá has a thatched-roof church. The Parque ArqueolĂłgico also has two museums on either side of the road: one displays archaeological finds and the other explores the ethnography of the Nasa (Páez) peoples of the region. To the west and north of Tierradentro are several caminos de herradura, or stone roads, connecting such hamlets as Guanacas, Inzá, Silvia, Chinas and Lame. As security stabilizes, these will make for great off-the-beaten-track hiking. The region also hides multitudinous caverns, waterfalls and other natural wonders.
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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