Tierradentro Overview

By Lorraine Caputo

Deep within the heart of the hilly countryside around Tierradentro lies one of Colombia's great archaeological gems: mysterious subterranean tombs painted in white-black-red-ochre geometrical patterns. It is a difficult journey to arrive there, especially in the rainy season. You will be awarded, though, with incredible walking opportunities to explore the ruins and villages of this "Land Within."

A road runs from Popayán to La Plata, passing through Tótoro. The turn-off for Tierradentro is Cruce de Pisimbalá, also called Cruce de San Andrés, near the town of ­­Guadalejo. The Popayán-La Plata road is paved only from El Pital, east of Guadalejo, to La Plata. (Note: this is a different road than that along the north edge of Parque Nacional Natural Puracé.)

From the crossroads, the road heads north towards the "Land Within," Tierradentro. The principal town is San Andrés de Pisimbalá. Two and a half kilometers before that village is Parque Arqueológico, the entrance and museums of this famed archaeological site. The settlement has the major concentration of lodging and restaurants in the area. The road continues uphill to San Andrés, where there are other hotels and eateries. Parque Arqueológico de Tierradentro is part of the Resguardo Indígena de Andrés, an indigenous reservation of the Nasa (Páez) nation. Inzá, a town just west of Guadalejo, has its market day on Saturday, when you can see many Nasa in traditional dress.