The road from Santa Marta undulates southward through dry hills forested with small-leafed trees and cardoon cactus. From the crest you see the high-rise condos and hotels of the port’s richer half-sister, El Rodadero. This is where Colombian families come to spend the holidays, enjoying the warm sea and clean beaches. Along the coast, Colombian musicians and actors have their vacation homes. On the island at the mouth of the cove is Pelican Island, privately owned by the family of an ex-governor of Magdalena Department. Everything in this resort town is geared to tourism, from a water sport theme park to aquariums where you can feed the fish and swim with the dolphins. Travelers on excursions with more exclusive tour groups will stay in this part of town. However, that doesn’t mean there are not places for journeyers with more modest budgets.