The Guajira (Wajirra in the language of the Wayuu)—a no-man’s land replete with smugglers and outlaws. Too dangerous to travel alone. A barren corner of the earth with hostile Indians. Due to its isolation, indeed Wajirra lived this history. But embarking on a journey to this far northeastern region of Colombia, you will soon learn a different face. Welcome to the Land of Dreams and Death, as the Wayuu call their homeland.
The Guajira is divided into three parts, each distinguished by vegetation. Baja Guajira is the southern-most, with lands reaching towards the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and an agriculture and cattle raising based economy. The world’s largest coal mine, El Cerrejón, is also here. Media Guajira, which includes Riohacha, Maicao and Manaure, is a hot region, but with moderate temperatures and low-desert flora. Alta Guajira—Uribia, northward to Cabo de Vela and Nazareth—is what we most often think of as Wajirra: desolate deserts. In the eastern midst of this is the oasis of the Macuira mountain range. Much of this area is difficult to reach with public transport. A sliver of the Peninsula belongs to Venezuela, though for the Wayuu this border does not exist.
The Wayuu (Guajiro) is a very traditional matrilineal society. Many are willing—after the ice is broken—to teach you about their culture. It is said you make a Wayuu friend for life; even if you return 10 years later, you will be welcomed into the home. Also in the Guajira also are significant communities of Afro-Colombians, descendents of Maroons.
Fresh water is scarce in the Media and Alta Guajira, thus affecting the price of every commodity. Hotels may have limited supplies, comidas corrientes often don’t include a drink, and transport is more expensive. Have your budget prepared and practice conservation measures.
Besides being accessible by the Troncal del Caribe highway, another road comes from Valledupar in the south. It parallels the coal mega-railroad from El Cerrejón, to Cuatro Vías, the crossroads with the Troncal; the northern spur goes to the Alta Guajira. When making your travel plans, be aware the southern highway is closed and heavily patrolled from dusk to dawn. The U.S. may establish a military base in the peninsula.