The Guajira Peninsula

Sunrise in the Guajira. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

By Lorraine Caputo

The Guajira (Wajirra in the language of the Wayuu)—a no-man’s land replete with smugglers and outlaws. Too dangerous to travel alone. A barren corner of the earth with hostile Indians. Due to its isolation, indeed Wajirra lived this history. But embarking on a journey to this far northeastern region of Colombia, you will soon learn a different face. Welcome to the Land of Dreams and Death, as the Wayuu call their homeland.

The Guajira is divided into three parts, each distinguished by vegetation. Baja Guajira is the southern-most, with lands reaching towards the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and an agriculture and cattle raising based economy. The world’s largest coal mine, El Cerrejón, is also here. Media Guajira, which includes Riohacha, Maicao and Manaure, is a hot region, but with moderate temperatures and low-desert flora. Alta Guajira—Uribia, northward to Cabo de Vela and Nazareth—is what we most often think of as Wajirra: desolate deserts. In the eastern midst of this is the oasis of the Macuira mountain range. Much of this area is difficult to reach with public transport. A sliver of the Peninsula belongs to Venezuela, though for the Wayuu this border does not exist.

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