The River Train

Location:
Barrancabermeja, Colombia

Other Activity Types:
Train ride

By Lorraine Caputo

"Peto, peto," Doña Sorelly calls. She opens her milk can, steam from the corn drink escaping into this slightly cool morning. The toot of the autoferro’s horn warns of our imminent passage. We leave Barrancabermeja, entering this new day swaying, occasionally jolting down narrow-gauge tracks. Wheels upon rails sharply clack and rumble as we pass homes with still-sleeping families. Mango trees scrape our sides. The cloud-silhouetted dawn is just beginning to lighten. In the distance, on the banks of the Río Magdalena, refinery stack smoke and derrick flames billow. Lightning streaks the western sky. A thin rain sheens off bronze cacao leaves.

This landscape begins to define itself as waterlilied swamps and stands of bamboo. Cattle rise, the dew and drizzle glistening on their hides. Passengers come, cargo goes. Slowly these villages and settlements we visit are awakening, stalls are mounted in the light of lamps. Garzas rise from their trees, white blips winging across the grey sky. There's a hollow clatter as we cross over bridges above small rivers flowing to that great Río. Workers board, workers leave, it's just another day to labor. This land, so flat, begins to undulate. The rain ceases, though the day is yet subdued. Thin-limbed, potbellied children stand in their golden-lit doorways, lethargically watching us shudder past.

After Puerto Olaya, the Río Magdalena comes into view. Soldiers patrol the bridge we soon cross. The river glimmers silver and brown beneath us, its sandbars exposed. Swooshing, swaying, clattering past shack homes we arrive to our destination, Puerto Berrío.

Travel Tips: Check the Getting To and Away section of Barrancabermeja for the train's latest schedule, or phone: 7-602-7684.

Barrancabermeja is commonly called just plain ol' Barranca.

Relative price: Budget

Travel Skills: None

In Barrancabermeja is the Museo del Petróleo. Near the city is Ciénaga San Silvestre.

Currencies accepted
Colombian Peso