Don't let first impressions of Tumaco put you off from spending a bit of time here. The streets are crazy, but you can seek refuge in the cathedral, then stroll to Parque Colón across the road and search for the iguanas in the trees—or battle the market streets’ madness until you reach the home of Virgen de la Merced, Tumaco's patron saint, on Parque Nariño.
The Casa de la Cultura has a small museum and library (Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-noon, 2-6 p.m. Calle Bolívar and Calle San Carlos). Then there are beach temptations.
Playa El Bajito, on Isla Viciosa, just before Puente El Morro, is in the process of reclamation, but the waters are still too polluted to swim; instead, have a quick bite to eat. Across the bridge, at the end of Isla El Morro, is that island's playa, with tranquil waters and black sands. If you can, take the trip through the mangroves to Isla Bocagrande, where the region's best beaches are.
For nature lovers, Parque Nacional Sanquianga, four hours north on the coast, is home to waterfowl, sea turtles and 30 percent of Colombia's Pacific Coast mangrove. On the mainland is Reserva La Planada, (presently closed).
If you can't be in Tumaco for one of the festivals, you can still catch performances of the traditional Afro-Colombian dances of the region. Every Wednesday and Thursday night rehearsals are held at the Cancha on Calle San Judás and Calle de los Estudiantes from 7-9 p.m.