Latacunga

By Christopher Minster

A medium-sized town about an hour south of Quito, Latacunga appeals to the traveler interested in a more native or genuine Ecuadorian experience. Latacunga is a tranquil, non-touristy town with a decent tourist infrastructure.

Latacunga was destroyed by earthquakes and eruptions of Cotopaxi on three occasions: in 1742, 1768 and 1877. The capital of Cotopaxi province, Latacunga is conveniently located near Cotopaxi National Park as well as the Quilotoa-Zumbagua loop, Saquisili and Pujili. In spite of the repeated destruction, it is a historical town, boasting a well-preserved colonial downtown that is worth a visit even for the traveler who is merely passing through.

Once a somewhat grungy city, Latacunga municipality has done a great deal in recent years to beautify itself, improving gardens in the town squares and adding ornate metalwork to the bridges that connect the city to the highway.

There are a variety of hotels and restaurants in Latacunga, catering to every budget level. Try one of the city’s most famous dishes: chugchucaras, a plate of pork with boiled corn, fried plantains and popcorn.

The city hosts a most impressive Saturday market. Unlike Otavalo, the main participants in the Latacunga market are not foreigners but locals who do their weekly shopping and socializing. Even on other days of the week, the market is often bustling and worth a visit.

Two museums are of interest: La Casa de los Marqueses de Miraflores (Sanchez de Orellana y Abel Echeverria) is a restored colonial mansion with traditional furniture and colonial art, and La Casa de la Cultura (Antonia Vela y Padre Salcedo) has an interesting collection of pre-conquest artifacts as well as an art gallery with rotating exhibitions.

The town festival, La Fiesta de la Mama Negra, is held on September 23 and 24 and features parades, fireworks, and dancing.

It is easy to get to Latacunga from Quito’s main terminal, Terminal Terrestre Cumandá.  Buses from various cooperatives run every ten or fifteen minutes to head south along the Pan-American route.  Most frequently operated buses to the area are Baños, San Francisco, and Amazonas.  The ride to Latacunga takes 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how many stops the bus makes, and costs between $1.50 and $2. However, buses to Latacunga will often drive all over Quito after departing from the terminal, hoping to fill with passengers. This means that the one-hour trip may take up to two hours or more. If you’re trying to catch the bus from Latacunga to the Quilotoa loop (with daily departures at 11:30 and noon), be sure to arrive early enough to have time to spare.