Chugchilán

By Caroline Bennett

Sitting high to the west between Sigchos and Quilotoa, tiny Chugchilán and its friendly inhabitants are a real Andean gem. With stunning scenery, hikes into plummeting canyons, primary cloud forests, cheese factories and some of the homiest accommodation in Ecuador, Chugchilán should not be missed.

Chugchilán landed on the map because of a few fantastic hostels, and its popularity as a base for exploring the area continues to be on the rise. Built into the mountainsides and overlooking the impressive Río Toachi canyon, the village is one of those places where people come passing through and end up staying for days. There are three excellent lodges at the end of town, each with its own warm touches and all offering hearty home-cooked meals, horseback riding trips, local transportation and hiking information.

The "town" itself consists of a small basketball court in front of a church facing a few simple houses that also serve as local businesses, vending ice cream or sewing up saddles. A street stall or two dish out simple meat and rice plates in the evenings, catering to locals and also serving as the town hangout. Don’t be fooled by the sign "Pension Popular Diocesana" next to the church - the old building is not a hostel! Hostels and most things of interest to tourists can be found heading down the hill just outside of town.