Quilotoa Loop

By Caroline Bennett

With some of the most breathtaking scenery in Ecuador, the region that has come to be known as the Quilotoa Loop is perfect for travelers seeking a taste of indigenous farm life and spectacular mountain landscapes a bit off the usual tourist path.

Starting in Latacunga, 200 kilometers of mostly unpaved road winds through patchwork hills and along riverbeds, connecting tiny mountain villages to the west, then circling back to Latacunga. Though riding the entire loop in one fell swoop would take about eight hours by bus, the real thrill of the expedition is in hiking and bumping along the dusty road from village to village, staying the night and hanging out with the locals.

Many choose to travel the loop in a circle, walking, busing, horsing or biking from village to village in either direction, and staying in a different place each night. Another option is to base yourself in either Chugchilán, Isinliví or Tigua, where accommodation options are considerably more pleasant.

Though transport can be a bit tricky, getting around the loop via public transport is doable with a little patience, planning and some very early morning rises. The destinations more than make up for the arduous journeys, and the scenery is stunning by golden dawn light. Some stops not to miss:

The magnificent Quilotoa Volcanic Crater Lake is one of the most striking sites in Ecuador and one of the most beautiful craters in Latin America, with lustrous emerald waters and excellent hiking paths.

The indigenous market at Sasquisilí. You won't find many souvenirs, but many consider this the best market in Ecuador, and it’s certainly one of the most authentic. Filled with locals bartering for everything from pigs' ears to fresh produce, Thursdays in Saquisilí transform into a colorful spectacle for the senses.

The tiny town of Chugchilán landed on the map because of a few fantastic hostels, and its popularity as a base for exploring the area continues to rise. With some of the region’s most incredible vistas, an array of hiking and horseback riding trails into canyons and cloud forests, and exceptionally warm and hospitable people, it's no wonder that business in this tiny mountain town has flourished.

The artisan village of Tigua is probably best known for the unique style of colorful paintings made locally and sold all over the country. In addition to visits to local art galleries and workshops, there are many hikes in the area and an excellent working-farm posada.