Quilotoa

By Caroline Bennett

Just off the loop road about 14 kilometers north of Zumbahua lies the wee village of Quilotoa and the mysterious emerald waters of its illustrious volcanic crater lake. Jagged rocky cliffs drop 400 meters down from a fully encircling rim trail to meet the massive reflective pool below. The bizarre opaque-green of the lake paired with the distant snowcapped peaks of Iliniza Sur and Cotopaxi set a truly awe-inspiring scene.

In 30 minutes, you can climb down to the shores on a cut path just below the parking area, the steep return trip takes at least double that (or for a few bucks you can hop on a donkey and save weary legs). Kayaks are available for rent at the end of the trail, though the lake has no outlet and you mustn’t swim or drink from the stagnant alkaline waters.

Relatively fit hikers can make the 4-5 hour trek around the entire circumference of the crater, or walk a third of the way around it and on to Chugchilan.

One stretch of dirt road and the scattering of houses and tiny businesses that line it make up the small village of Quilotoa, which lies just before the crater lake and seems to only exist in response to tourism. There are several extremely basic hostels that also serve as restaurants and shops, and not much else.

Quilotoa is a good place to find local indigenous art, especially paintings of the famous Tigua style. There are a few shops where artists sell their work that are mostly part of hostels or houses in town. If the doors are locked, ask around and someone will likely come let you in.

Be aware that nights can be pretty chilly in the Andes, and some simple accommodations may not be adequately equipped to keep you warm.