Ibarra, Imbabura's provincial capital, is also known as the "White City," due to its colonial whitewashed buildings (though some visitors find it a bit more lackluster than it sounds). Cobblestone streets, red-tiled roofs and horse-drawn carts add to the historic ambiance. In the past, busloads of travelers came to Ibarra to hop aboard the train, which rolled its way down from the Andes to the coastal town of San Lorenzo, 193 miles away.
Unfortunately, the rails are currently under construction, and only a truncated version (the autoferro) runs as far as Primer Paso 45 kilometers away. Even without rail trail, however, Ibarra is a peaceful, pleasant place to spend a day or two. Take a stroll to the Basílica de La Merced, with its lofty red-and-gold altarpiece, then head to the old infantry barracks near Parque La Merced and snack on nogadas and arrope de mora, some of Ibarra’s sweeter specialties. After your sweet-tooth fix make your way to Plaza de la Ibarreñidad and stop by the Museo Banco Central, where you can brush up on your Ecuadorian archaeology and Northern Highlands history while browsing an array of pre-Inca and Inca artifacts.
If history isn’t your thing, check out Mercado Amazonas on Avenida Pérez Guerrero, or the crafts market on Plaza Atahualpa. And no trip to the White City would be complete without sampling its most famous specialty: helados de paila. This sweet, fluffy sorbet-like treat is whipped up in oversized copper pans, known as pailas, and sold at a number of heladerías in town. For day tripping outside the city, head to the peaceful shores of Laguna Yahuarcocha, or the woodcarving capital of San Antonio de Ibarra. Ibarra is also en route to Esmeraldas, if you want a quick dip in the ocean.