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Hiking
V!VA User‘s Description
One of the most popular spots for hiking is the area around Lagunas de Mojanda. Seventeen kilometres from Otavalo, the lakes are set in high páramo grassland at around 3,500m. A taxi up to the lake from the town costs about 12-14 USD. Expect to pay another $6-7 per hour if you want the taxi to wait. If you come hiking up here, make sure you take some warm clothes and a windproof jacket – the altitude and the exposure make it a lot colder than sheltered Otavalo.
The road between the lake and the town is itself a nice walk – it’s cobbled the whole way and affords great views over the valleys, passing through little villages. There’s no transport up there, so if you walk up, you should order a taxi to pick you up at the top (the walk takes five to seven hours with breaks), or be prepared to walk back as well. Some people get a taxi to the top and walk back down. If you do this walk it’s best to go in a group as some parts are isolated and there have been reports of robberies on the route. The lower six or seven kilometres are generally considered to be safer.
There are two main places to stay along this road. On the right hand side, 3km from town is the top-end hotel Casa Mojanda. About 1km further on, on the left is La Luna, which is more geared to backpackers. Both have great views down into the valley.
Once you reach the lake, there are numerous possibilities for hiking. A good hike (well, half hike, half scramble) is from the lakeside, close to where the road stops, up to the top of Fuya Fuya, an extinct volcano – it’s the highest point around the lake, at 4260 and the views from the top are stunning on a clear day.
Another, shorter, walk is to the top of the first hill on the left, as you face the lake from the parking area. You’ll see the trail leading steeply upwards from the lakeside. It’s a steep, 20 to 30-minute climb to the highest point, from here you can make your way along the ridge. Take one of the paths down the hill to the lakeside, from where you can walk back to the parking area.
Although there is a trail around the lake, it’s almost impossible to hike it in a single day – unless you run! Most people simply walk along the trail for a couple of hours then backtrack. There are also several circular routes that start off on the lakeside trail then bend into the mountains – these can take anywhere from a couple of hours to a full day. Both hotels mentioned above can suggest good walking routes and can sometimes arrange tours.
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Our children aged 9 and 11 managed the climb from lagunas de mojanda to the peak of Fuya Fuya. Its a hike of 3 hours but with children, we took 4 hours and enjoyed a picnic at the top. Although we warned to expect cold weather, it was bright and sunny and with the exercise, we were soon sweaty hot! Do not forget hats, sunscreen and lots of lots of water. The altitude affected us making the climb especially in the beginning, slow going. Our guide, about twice our age, wanted to move faster but we resisted and we took frequent breaks - to drink, to catch our breath and to enjoy the sensational views. The cost of the taxi from Otavalo, waiting, and taking us back was $40. The guide was about $30 - if memory serves me well. Views from Fuya Fuya are spectacular.
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