in Cuenca

photo by Nili Larish

By Christopher Minster

Cuenca is one of Ecuador’s most elegant and beautiful cities: it is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural site, a fact of which the locals are immeasurably proud.  The easiest and most obvious activity is to simply stroll around the historic downtown, marveling at the architecture in and around the well-kept main park. The central park is dominated by a monument to Abdón Calderón, a young Cuencano who fought valiantly at the battle of Pichincha in 1822. Cuenca’s most famous cathedral is La Inmaculada, a massive stone-and-brick structure on the eastern side of the central square. It is instantly recognizable by the blue domes that dominate Cuenca’s skyline.  

If La Inmaculada isn’t enough for you, be reassured: there are supposedly 52 churches in Cuenca, one for every Sunday of the year.  It is impossible to wander far in any direction in Cuenca without running into a colonial church.  One notable one is the old cathedral, (El Sagrario), which sits across the park from La Inmaculada. Today, El Sagrario is more museum than church: if you wander inside, you’ll see no pews or altars, but many interesting artifacts.  There is even a glass window in the floor through which you can see a small section of the catacombs below: it looks sort of like a shallow well with several neatly arranged skulls. If you still need a church fix, head over to Todos Los Santos Church, the oldest in Cuenca. You can see the statue of Santa Ana, patroness of the city. It’s at the corner of Calle Larga and Bajada de Todos Los Santos.

If you’ve seen enough churches and want a taste – or, rather, a whiff – of local culture, head over to the 10 de Agosto market.  This market, once considered by cuencanos to be shabby and dangerous, has had a complete makeover.  It is a sprawling two-level complex, with a working escalator and signs on the ceiling telling visitors where to find meat, fruit, vegetables, etc. The stalls are orderly and neat: South American market-going veterans may be stunned at the very orderliness of the place. There isn’t much to buy for tourists, but bring your camera: the fruit “aisle” is particularly photo-worthy. 

Another place frequented by locals but worth a stop for visitors is the Plaza Rotary. It’s an open-air market featuring assorted “stuff” – there’s really no better word for it. Need a basket made of old car tires? Plaza Rotary. How about a neon-colored SpongeBob piggy bank? You bet. In the market for a handmade wicker fire-fanner? You’ve come to the right place. 

If you have all the SpongeBob piggybanks you need and want to do some real shopping, Cuenca is your place.  There are several antique stores near the Las Conceptas church: buyer beware, especially when purchasing “pre-Columbian” pottery, colonial paintings and carved wooden statues: some are certainly forgeries or replicas. Most stores will tell you when something is a reproduction, but not all: look closely at any “antique” you wish to purchase. If you want to purchase some of Cuenca’s famous pottery, head to the Eduardo Vega Gallery, just down the hill from the Turi overlook. 

If you still want to shop, head over to the Plaza San Francisco, about a block away from the flower market to the west. You'll find a lot of low-quality stuff for locals (like shoes) but also some vendors from Otavalo selling the usual blankets, scarves, etc. Some of the stores around the square sell clothes for religious icons, such as gold-embroidered capes. On the western side of the plaza, you'll find La Casa de la Mujer/Cemuart, a tidy collection of stands selling jewelry, panama hats and other handicrafts.

If you’re on a tour, they’ll probably take you to the Homero Ortega Panama hat factory (Ramírez Dávalos 3-86). There are several factories (and individuals) in and around Cuenca who make Panama hats. The Homero Ortega factory is the only one which is open to the public. 

No trip to Cuenca is complete without a trip to the Turi overlook. It sits on a modest hill to the south of the city: on a clear day, the view is spectacular. There is a small church there and some coin-operated binoculars. 

If you’re staying a while, Cuenca has some reputable Spanish schools that can set you up in a homestay if you like. There are also several museums of note, including the Pumapungo museum complex which has very good exhibits for those interested in the complete history of the region and city. The Popular Arts Museum is a good place to see modern art that has been influenced by traditional techniques and styles. Don’t forget to visit the San Joaquín neighborhood, where you can get some great barbecued meat.

There is as much to do outside of Cuenca as inside. The two biggest attractions are El Cajas national park and the ancient Inca ruins at Ingapirca. Many tours will take you to the towns of Gualaceo and Chordeleg. Gualaceo is a small, pleasant town with a nice park by the river, and Chordeleg is known for the dozens of silver shops that line the streets and main square. Occasionally, the tours will continue to the town of Sigsig, which is known for Panama hats. Many tours will stop for lunch at the beautiful Hosteria Uzhupud.

The town of Girón is also popular with visitors for its attractive old colonial homes and the nearby el Chorro waterfall. The nearby town of Jima is developing a fledgling tourism industry: it offers good hikes.