Loja

Founded in 1548 by Alonso de Mercadillo, Loja is somewhat of a political and cultural island, surrounded by mountains and stranded at the far southern end of Ecuador. Besides being the provincial capital, Loja warrants recognition as the first city in Ecuador to generate electricity (1897). Today, Loja is an intellectually and architecturally unique city, boasting two universities set among a peculiar mix of urban concrete and colonial structures.

Approximately 500 meters lower than most southern cities, Loja enjoys noticeably warmer weather — an appropriate complement to its congenial cultural climate and exuberant atmosphere. There is a lot to see and do in Loja. Situated around the sprawling palm-tree studded central park are a number of interesting buildings, including the Cathedral, Casa de Justicia, which houses the Museo del Banco Central, and the modern municipio, with its pleasant courtyard and vibrant murals, which play out various indigenous scenes. Beyond the park, further south along Bolívar from the Iglesia Santo Domingo, is the Plaza de la Independencia, where the citizens of Loja gathered on November 18, 1820 to denounce the Spanish Crown and assert their independence. Perhaps the most attractive section of the city, the square is enlivened by the brightly painted facades of colonial-style buildings, and neatly framed by resplendent hills rising in the distance.

Between the historic center of the city and the northern areas, you’ll find the Entrada a la Cuidad, a towering structure designed to look like a medieval castle gatehouse. The building houses an art museum and snack bar and is worth a quick visit.

Beyond the city center and its magnificent squares are the Parque de Recreación Jipiro, Parque La Argelia and Jardín Botánico Reynaldo Espinosa, all perfect for day-strolls. For stunning panoramic views of the city, head up to the statue of the Virgen de Fátima, sitting in the hills east of the city. Located just beyond Loja, Parque Nacional Podocarpus offers more sweeping views and stunning landscapes to explore.

Most visitors to Loja are delighted to discover that the city is still quite inexpensive. You can stay and eat for less money than you can in most of the rest of Ecuador. As for lodging in Loja, visitors have several options: you’ll find dirt-cheap hostels, elegant, classy hotels and everything in between. Restaurants in Loja tend towards the regional. Most of the food you’ll find is heavy southern Ecuadorian fare, heavy on the soups and pork, but there are a few places that feature international cuisine.