La Casa de Mama Hilda's

Beautiful scenery around Chugchilán. Photo by Michelle Hopey

Sunken valleys. Patches of green and brown acres of land quilted together. Gargantuan peaks of mountains and hills with vertical slopes of cows, sheep, goats, pigs and llamas.

Perhaps the best place to view the amazing Andean scenery is from the Ecuadorian highlands itself, along the now famous Quilotoa loop. And while the tourist trail that follows this circuit has been well-paved, primarily to view the Laguna Quilotoa- a stunning blue volcanic crater lake—those who stay in the mountain oasis for more than a day and see this land by horseback will be the only ones privy to the real beauties of this place, the landscape and people.

Tucked away, high-up in the mountains, three and a half hours by bus from Latagunca on a rocky dirt road is the rural pueblo of Chugchilán. It is perhaps the best location to hunker down while exploring these mountains. In Chugchilán you get fresh, brisk air, warm piercing equator sunshine, windy, dirt roads and clunking pickup trucks. Unfazed and uninhibited, the raw indigenous culture is nearly unscathed. A low population mixed with friendly smiles and family warmth makes you revel in this place you’ve found. But perhaps the best part of Chugchilán is taking up staying with Mama Hilda.

Mama Hilda’s Hostel is a modern cozy lodge, with super-clean bedrooms and baths to boot. You are treated to breakfast, a delicious, home cooked dinner, and the company of Mama Hilda, a meaty and short, yet warmly loving grandma that dons two signature braids that rest perfectly off her shoulders, and a large amiable smile stretched across her face. Mama Hilda and her family run this show—while Mama cooks the meals, her children, grandchildren and nieces and nephews are cleaning the property, building new bedrooms, farming for produce, herding the cattle, flaming the pigs, and guiding visitors up over the mountain—by foot or by horseback—to the great crater lake.

To experience the best of what Mama has to offer, plan on staying with her and the family for two nights. The buses from Latacunga arrive at Mama Hilda’s in the afternoon which is perfect for you to check-in, get comfy in your room and get your bearings down in this ever-so small town.

Late afternoon is perfect for relaxing in one of the hammocks while rich savory smells of dinner waft in the air. Dinner is scrumptious, warm, hearty winter meal, eaten, of course—family style. Inevitably, Mama cooks up a dish using the Andean seed, quinoa which is much like couscous, and she prepares meat, potatoes, rice—typical Andean fare. Mama will wait on you hand and foot; rarely does she take a seat—she works to please and won’t let you leave until you are full-bellied and happy. The warm-fuzzy family atmosphere will make you want to trade in some relatives for these ones. Since there is no heat in the rooms, guests typically stay in the dining room where there is a fireplace. Travelers trade tales well into the night while playing cards, reading, drinking (the only thing you’ll need cash for outside of the room price) or making plans for the next day’s activities—hiking or horseback riding.

Over an early morning breakfast of fresh, hot bread, jam and fruit (sometimes eggs too) is the perfect time to chat with Mama and her kids about horseback riding or hiking to the crater. While the hike is an amazingly steep adventure, and satisfying aerobic work-out, if you’ve come to experience the Andean high-life and take in all the scenery, you’re likely to see much more from the saddle of horse. The horses will take you high-up on the ridges where you marvel at the peaks or peer over the deep green valleys while in the midst of llamas, sheep, pigs and goats. And like Mama herself her children are kind and comforting, so if you’ve never ridden horseback before, they will settle worries and ease you into a magnificent ride.

If you’re lucky, your guide may invite you to have lunch with friends living near the lake, a real chance to see how a local family lives, void of any tourist dollars. A soccer game with the local children, after the meal isn’t unlikely either, but watch out: they’re the undiscovered national stars just waiting to be signed. Read: they are incredibly dynamic soccer players.

After a likely defeat, you’ll be driven back to Mama’s hostel where you can wash-up and warm-up to another one of Mama’s hot, home-cooked savory meals. It’s guaranteed to soothe any aches from the earlier ride. And whether you are headed off for a good nice sleep and leaving the next afternoon, or catching the 3 a.m. bus back, it’s rare that you can sneak off without one of Mama’s generous big hugs, and like a good, true Mama, she might even pinch your cheeks.