Punta Prieta Guesthouse

By John Polga-Hecimovich

Miles from the nearest village and filled with the sound of waves crashing into its cliffs, Punta Prieta calms the restless and soothes the burdened. This guest house offers creature comforts, fresh seafood, and all of those intangibles that go with its location: a salty breeze that rejuvenates the spirit, a deserted beach that begs for company, and an atmosphere that makes relaxation no chore.

Punta Prieta is a tourist-free oasis in the middle of a stretch of coast between Pedernales and Canoa that attracts many Ecuadorians and foreigners alike in search of peace and solitude. Perched atop a rocky cliff, it offers eight different and affordable cabins, a central restaurant with stunning views north and south along the coast; other distractions include a movie and DVD collection and a billiards table. Punta Prieta’s owner, Alonso Ordoñez, has decorated the grounds with art. He also feeds a slew of iguanas that live outside the main building, and keeps a Galápagos tortoise that is at least 60 years old. In addition to the usual amenities, cabins have refrigerators, kitchen access, and wonderful views. Travelers on a budget can camp on the beach for a minimal fee, and have access to the showers and bathrooms.

Vacationers are also drawn to Punta Prieta’s tours of nearby tropical dry forest, a rare ecosystem that can appear dead to the untrained eye. In reality, because half of the year is completely dry, those plant species that have survived have adapted and tend to lose their leaves in the dry season. They include palo santo “trees” (actually bushes), ceiba and balsa trees and the tagua palm whose malleable nuts are carved and sold in highland markets such as Otavalo. Unfortunately, like other tropical forest habitats, this unusual ecological zone is disappearing at an alarming rate. Tours can be made on foot or on horseback, and their duration depends on the visitor’s preference. A more relaxing hike from Punta Prieta follows the beach along craggy cliffs to an unusual rock formation. This structure, el Arco, is a natural stone arch formed by water erosion that stretched over ten meters into the air. The arch sits three kilometers north of Punta Prieta, and is accessed by simply following the beach at low tide; a round trip hike takes between two and three hours.

After the daytime beachcombing, exploring, or simply chilling out, the sinking sun promises that the day’s catch will soon be cooked up in Punta Prieta’s kitchen. The restaurant sits on the edge of the cliff, and salt air wafts in from three sides as the waves continue their rhythmic solo 15 meters below. It isn’t hard to understand why many families, couples or backpackers end up spending much more time here than they planned; the reality of work or school couldn’t be father away.