Saraguro

By Allison Korn

Arriving in Saraguro is a one-of-a-kind experience; there is literally no place like it in the world. What makes this small city so unique are the inhabitants, the Saraguros. The Saraguros are distinctive in their dress, traditions, and history, and are unlike any other indigenous group in Ecuador.

Originally from the Lake Titicaca region in Peru, the Saraguros were moved to their present location by the Incas as part of the Mitimae system. As a result, the Saraguros have maintained their age-old traditions and have become leaders in the indigenous movement, both in Ecuador and internationally.

Saraguro is famous for its beautiful weaving and jewelry, which can immediately be observed upon arrival. The typical dress of the women includes a black, outer-skirt which covers a more colorful embroidered one, together with a black shawl held closed by an intricately designed metal tupu, or pin. Around their waists are brightly woven belts and their colorful, beaded necklaces are often so large that they hang over their shoulders. The dress of the men is most notable for the calf length black pants and ponchos. Both men and women wear white felt hats with flat wide brims and their hair in one long braid.

To really get a feel for Saraguro it is worth it to have a guide take you not only through the city, but to the surrounding towns, which hold just as much Saraguran culture. A great place to start is at Fundacion Kawsay, whose goal is community ecotourism and revitalization of the indigenous culture and ethnicity of Saraguro. With them you can take tours of weavers’ workshops, medicinal plant projects, as well as take hikes to sacred waterfalls where traditional ritual cleansings are still performed. The profits of this organization go directly to the different communities visited, so you know exactly where your money is going. And if you have a hankering to pick up some Kichwa, this is the place to do it, as most people in the area, especially in the surrounding towns, speak this native language.

At 64 kilometers North of Loja, there are not very many places to stay the night in Saraguro, although Fundacion Kawsay has the most comfortable hostel just outside of town with beautiful views. There are also the Hotels Samana Wasi, Sara Allpa, and Saraguro, all budget and adequate. The best place to eat is Mama Cuchara, serving typical meals on the main plaza and run by the indigenous federation.

A trip to Saraguro is truly eye-opening and refreshing; there are very few tourists and it is home to beautiful countryside and a fascinating culture.