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Ecuador is known for its wonderful exotic fruits, high quality fish and seafood, and the countless varieties of Andean corn and potatoes. Across the country you'll find a broad spectrum of national and regional dishes, including lemon-marinated shrimp, toasted corn, and pastries stuffed with spiced meats. If you're feeling courageous, put your culinary bravery to the test with roasted cuy (guinea pig) or cow-stomach stew, guata. If you're looking to stretch your buck take advantage of set dishes, an Ecuadorian institution in many restaurants. Almuerzos (lunches) and meriendas (dinners) usually offer soup, a main course, juice and dessert for between $1.50 and $3.00. Dishes sold on the street are also quite cheap, but hygiene is often questionable. A good rule to follow is the locals' rule: if the place is frequented by many locals, the food probably merits joining the crowd.
Ají- hot sauce made from a spicy red pepper grown in the Ecuadorian rainforest- complements the traditional diet of rice, potatoes, and meat. Most Ecuadorian restaurants and homes have their own version of ají. Some versions of homemade ají are basically tomato sauce, while others are incredibly spicy (picante) so be sure to sample a bit before smothering your food. If you don’t see a little bowl of ají on your table, just ask, they're sure to have it. In addition to ají, a mound of rice, a small salad and potatoes or patacones (squashed, fried green plantains) accompany basic dishes. On the coast and in the Amazon, potatoes are often supplemented or replaced by menestra (beans or lentils) or yuca.
Soups are without a doubt Ecuador's specialty. The first course of most lunches and dinners is a savory soup, rich with grains, vegetables and chicken or beef. Locro soup, made with cheese, avocado and potato, sounds a bit odd, but is surprisingly tasty. Chupe de pescado, a fish and vegetable soup with coastal origins, is becoming popular throughout the country. Bolder diners can try yaguar locro, a potato soup made with sprinklings of cow blood. Those ready to throw their inhibitions completely to the wind should dip their spoon into caldo de pata, a broth containing chunks of boiled cow hooves, considered a delicacy by locals and believed by some hopeful men to increase virility.
Brave travelers will inevitably try cuy, a traditional dish that dates back to before the days of the Inca. It is generally fried or cooked over an open fire. There is not a lot of meat on a guinea pig, which tastes like a cross between chicken and pork. If you want to try cuy, your best bet is to check out a traditional Ecuadorian restaurant in Quito such as Mama Clorindas, or look for one in an indigenous area like Otavalo. You can also find them on the grill on the main street in Baños. Other classic dishes include: seco de pollo (stewed chicken accompanied by rice and avocado slices); lomo salteado (thin beef steak covered with onions and tomatoes); and seco de chivo (goat stew served with a mound of rice).
International Cuisine: If after your share of guinea pig you find yourself hankering for a familiar burger, burrito, or pizza, don't panic. Major cities feature (for better or worse) American fast food chains such as Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, McDonalds and KFC as well as some higher-quality chains like TGI Fridays, Applebee's, and Tony Roma's. As an up-and-coming cosmopolitan city, Quito also offers a good selection of international cuisine. If you fancy Argentine steak, Italian pasta, Japanese sushi, or French fondue you won't be disappointed. Expect prices lower than those in the United States or Europe but higher than local cuisine. Chinese, Mexican, Cuban, Arabic, Indian, and vegetarian meals are available in Quito at reasonable prices.
Seafood: Seafood is popular and plentiful throughout Ecuador. Lobster dinners can be enjoyed along the coast and in major cities for low prices. In Esmeraldas on the northern coast, try the delicious encocados, seafood dishes prepared in coconut milk. The signature dish of the country is ceviche, a cold soup of seafood marinated until it "cooks" in a broth of lime, onions, and tomatoes, often dished up with popcorn or chifles, thinly sliced fried plantains. Ceviche can be made with fish (pescado), shrimp (camarones), shellfish (concha), squid (calamari), or all of the above (mixta). Exercise caution, as improperly prepared ceviche has become one of the primary culprits of cholera and other nasty bacteria. Most restaurants are aware of this and act accordingly, but choose your dining establishment wisely.
Vegetarian/Vegan Cuisine: Vegetarians will be pleasantly surprised by the wide selection of vegetarian options in popular tourist destinations like Quito and Baños. In smaller towns, however, you will often be stuck eating some combination of rice, oily salads, and eggs. Strict vegans will have a tough time finding acceptable food in Ecuador, and should plan on doing a lot of grocery shopping, as restaurants in Ecuador don't really understand the concept of a meal without some sort of animal product: most vegetarian options include milk, eggs or cheese.
Drinks: With the mouthwatering exotic fruits of Ecuador come delicious fruit juices (jugos) including naranjilla (a tangy orange fruit), tomate de arbol (a fruity tomato with a kick), mora (blackberry), guanabana (an almost milky, sweet, white fruit), maracuya (passion fruit) and papaya. If you're staying in a home with an Ecuadorian family, chances are good you'll be treated to a fresh glass with breakfast every day. Most restaurants offer a variety of juices as well: ask for what's fresh. Bottled and canned fizzy drinks (including Coca Cola, Sprite and Fanta) are widely available throughout the country, as are teas and coffees. Ecuador produces good coffee, but surprisingly, most Ecuadorians seem to prefer instant over brewed coffee. If you are willing to pay slightly more, you can usually find a well-brewed cappuccino in the bigger cities and most popular tourist haunts.
Chicha is a traditional concoction found throughout the Andes, made from fermented corn, rice or yuca. In some rural parts of Ecuador the fermentation process is augmented by human saliva: chicha makers (traditionally women) chew the ingredients and spit them back in the pot to brew!
Not to be missed is the Andean specialty canelazo (or canelito), a popular fiesta drink similar to a hot toddy made of boiled water, sugar cane alcohol, lemon or orange, sugar and cinnamon. Good wine from Chile and Argentina is widely available. The cheapest way to enjoy it is from a cartón (yes, a box!) from the local supermarket. If your palate is a bit more finicky, fine wines from Chile, France, Spain, and Italy are also available. Most bars serve local beers of decent quality and very good value. The most popular brand is Pilsener, which generally comes in a large bottle. Local rum is great and quite cheap, perfect for Cuba Libres, Daiquiris, or Piña Coladas. Remember that tap water is frequently used in ice- request your beverages “sin hielo” (without ice) in restaurants.
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