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Quito is a city that takes a little longer than a quick guidebook read through to learn all about the gastronomy scene. The food, restaurants, neighborhoods and open hours are so varied throughout Ecuador’s capital city that it is best to check with a local or an expat to find out about the real gems or, at the very least, the places that won’t be open on Sundays or Mondays.
In the Mariscal, a.k.a Gringolandia, visitors can travel the scope of the culinary world without going outside the bordering streets. Spend a day in this neck of the woods, and you could end up having a four-square-meal day. Start the day off with the original bean brews found at Magic Bean (you can also get a good bagel), then go for a pricier than local set lunch ($3.50) at the Kallari Chocolate cooperative. Those are only two of many, many, many breakfast and lunch options, then when it comes to evening eating the choices are even more innumerable. If you feel like Thai fusion, go to Uncle Ho’s for a scrumptious cocktail and some spicy beef. For the travelers who have been on the road and really yearn for Shepherd’s Pie like mum makes it, hit up Finn McCool’s, where you can get a decent, local microbrew, too. If you feel like splurging, go to Latitude in Plaza Foch for all you can eat and drink tapas and wine. The list of places to eat in the Mariscal could go on and on, but that is the fun of it. Take the time to discover if you are a fan of hamburgers at G Spot or Tío Billys. (Go to Rusty’s near the Quicentro shopping mall for a good ol’ burger outside the Mariscal.) Compare Mexican food at Mexicali, Red Hot Chili Pepper and Fotonovela.
When it comes to traditional Ecuadorian cuisine, there are two spots the tour buses drop off tourists in hordes: Mama Clorindas and La Ronda. Both have excellent food and an interesting atmosphere, but La Ronda is a little more upscale and comes with the added touch of typical musicians and dancers.
If you have heard it once, you’ll hear it a thousand more times that the amazing views are one of the best parts of Quito. The list of restaurants with great views is pretty vast. Rumi Loma is little farther out, a little nicer and has great food. The restaurant at the Hotel Plaza Grande is by far one of the nicest and one of the most expensive in town, but it has an incomparable view of Plaza Granda and the Panecillo, especially at night. Next to Parque Itchimbia, Café Mosaico is renowned for having one of the best views of the old and new town. (Ask to check it out through the gigantic telescope.) Santa Espuma has a really beautiful view of the new town and really beautiful menu selection and microbrews, which are made on the premises. Venture down the hill of the bohemian neighborhood of Guapalo to dine at a cute café or a yummy pizzeria, like Ananke, for great views of the city and, especially, the church at the bottom of the hill.
While wandering around seeing the sites of old town, go to the Palacio Arzobisbal courtyards. The former residence of Quito’s Archbishop is now two courtyards of multilevel restaurants. Hasta la Vuelta Señor has good local dishes and a cute legend that goes along with its name.
Don’t be too afraid to eat food from street vendors. Be daring, buy a sack of mandarins for a dollar from the guy on the corner. Be extra Quiteño-like and wait in line at Gonzalez Suarez Hot Dogs. The $1.45 double hot dogs are almost fifty cents more than what you would normally pay for a hotdog at any other hot dog stand, but there’s something that brings the crowds night after night, maybe it’s the optional pineapple topping.
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