Atacames

Spread across an expansive stretch of fine gray sand, Atacames is a beachside playground for Ecuadorians. Foreigners are more the exception than the norm. Part hustler, part street-side vendor and welcoming hotel owner, Atacames is a town with many faces, which seem to change as the sun moves across the sky.

Families can be seen with toddlers lagging along at their sides and young couples walk wrapped in each others arms. Pods of young Ecuadorians meander through the streets or stake claim to a squat of beach. Volleyball matches and soccer games sporadically appear along the beach where mothers, brothers, sisters, girlfriends and happily single males mingle or lounge across beach chairs.

At sunrise, the beach is practically empty, which seems to draw another crowd: older couples and families with small children. This is the time to stroll the beach strip and enjoy Atacames for its inherent natural beauty: seemingly endless sand set admist rolling green hills that tumble into brown clay cliffs that plunge into the sea.

At night, of course, all such attributes disappear beneath a blanket of sky, the only lights being an occasional beach bonfire and the neon glow of Malecon’s bouncing bars and hopping restaurants. To taste all of Atacames, you'd have to rise early, party hard and be prepared to spend a hefty dime or two. Besides over-priced cocktails, the town specializes in encocado dishes, manejar de caco and ice cream sundaes served in carved out pineapples.

Safety is always an issue, as crowds and money seem to go hand-in-hand with crime and petty theft. Always keep an eye on your bag, never carry anything you'd be sad to lose and stay with the crowds: areas to the far east and west of the Malecon are noticeably less crowded, but also seem to attract more assaults. While hotels run east and west of the main Malecon strip, it's best to stay close to the action if you're in a small group or plan on walking to and from your hotel.

Inside the discos, don't accept drinks from unknown people, and beware of pickpockets on crowded dance floors.  It is even unwise to drive on the roads near Atacames after dark to nearby towns like Same and Sua, as local thieves have learned that wealthy young Quiteños often travel those roads at night on their way back to the posh hotels and resorts in those towns after a night of partying in Atacames.

During Carnaval, Quito empties, and most Quiteños head to the beach.  Atacames is the first to fill up: expect hotel rates to at least triple (if you're lucky enough to find one). In the daytime, the beach is so packed, you'll be hard pressed to find a place to lay out a bandanna, let alone a towel.

Tips

Atacames (and most of the other seaside resort areas) has two seasons: temporada alta (high season) and temporada baja (low season). As you might have guessed, hotel prices tend to rise by at least 10-15% during peak season, generally August to December and big holidays like Semana Santa and Carnival. If you're planning a trip during these times, it's best to reserve a room ahead of time, as the best places fill up quickly. Remember, too, that bargaining is always an option; whether you can successfully knock off a few bucks is another question. If you're strapped for cash, there are two ATM's on the Malecon. If you're in search of phone cards, inquire at one of the convenience stores or head to Hotel El Tiburon on the eastern end of Malecon.