Despite its rather alluring name, there is nothing much to attract even the most daring adventurer to Esmeraldas. The city is a dirty, depressing industrial port. Part of the blame must reside with a series of mudslides in 1997-1998, which destroyed much of the town and area. Whatever the reason, the city of Esmeraldas is no one's idea of a tourist destination. Oppressive heat and humidity, paired with a reputation for being unsafe, mean the city is more suitable for brief stopovers than longer stays. Dusty streets packed with a mechanical menagerie of buses, cars and taxis crisscross through town, passing street vendors, mom-and-pop stores, fruit and vegetable stalls and a variety of look-alike local restaurants along the way.
The region, however, is culturally rich, and home to one of Ecuador’s earliest communities: La Tolita. La Tolita Island, located to the north, is an important archaeological site. Numerous examples of their ceramic heritage are housed in the Museo del Banco Central (Espejo, between Olmedo and Colon). Afro-Ecuadorean culture is very much alive and well in Esmeraldas, it is best sampled through its marimba music and dance, or local cuisine, which relies heavily on coconut and plantain. If you find yourself stuck in the city for a night or two, catch a bus or taxi to Las Palmas, the Esmeraldas version of an upscale beach. A few bars and seafood restaurants line the main street, boasting excellent sea views: a good place to grab a cold beer and sample the local fare. Be warned, however, that this is not the best place to hang around alone at night. To get to Las Palmas head to Av. Libertad and catch a bus with red, green and white lettering.
The road from Quito to more appealing beach towns such as Same, Sua, and Atacames passes through Esmeraldas, so some travelers will inevitably wind up there. That's actually the best way to see Esmeraldas: through the window of a moving bus. Change buses if you must, but otherwise don't plan on spending any time there.