Muisne Overview

By Katie Tibbetts

Seen boat-side from the Río Muisne, the town appears disappointingly run down compared to the high-heeled hotels and holiday homes located 35 kilometers to the north. Salty sea breezes, strong equatorial sun and high humidity assault the building faces, leaving behind peeling paint and weather-worn wood patched with green mold.

Beyond the dock, behind the sagging riverside structures, is an equally lackluster town. Pallid and windowless buildings line the dusty street, where chickens and children roam freely. A single road, Isidro Ayora, stretches away from the docks, past the aging shop fronts, and ends abruptly at the palm-studded stretch of beach on the opposite end of town. It is here, on this quiet strip of clean, bar-less beach, that one begins to understand why travelers make the bumpy overland bus trip and cross-river trek to such a tired little town.  

Anyone coming from Atacames is sure to appreciate the peace, and even surf and sand snobs will have something positive to say about the beach (though if you're into surfing, Mompiche is a better bet). Stretched out seaside with clear views of beach inhabited only by resident palms, you're bound to breathe easy and let worries wash away like shells with the tide. Although the town and beachfront can feel a bit deserted at times — and it’s not recommended to wander away from the main areas alone — Muisne radiates a relaxed "enjoy-today-and-worry-tomorrow" island attitude that can charm even tight-fisted travelers into having just one more beer.

V!VA Update: Casa Marango Spanish School no longer exists, and despite information otherwise, does not offer rooms for $5/night. Hostal Mapara has recently changed owners and at the time of writing it was not clear whether it was going to remain in operation (please write and let us know!). Restaurant Suizó Italiano, quoted as having the best pizza in town, is closed (and has been for a while, according to Byron, owner of Hostal Playa Paraíso).