Asuncion

By Wes Weston

The streets are lined with aged buildings, some still showing evidence of a colonial style that is slightly dilapidated but not without a sense of timeless charm. A busy plaza hosts a multitude of daily routines where people-watching is often at its best.

Locals greet each other with a kiss on both cheeks whether they are longtime acquaintances or meeting for the first time. A group of friends passes around a cup of Yerba Mate (herbal tea typically shared in social settings) while conversing in a language that’s not quite Spanish. Artisans have set out displays on the sidewalk, where they hawk pottery, necklaces, and other trinkets to the passersby. The scene is bustling with enough activity to overwhelm the senses with wonderful curiosity; however, it’s just another day in Asunción, Paraguay.

Situated on the eastern bank of the Río Paraguay, Asunción is the country’s only metropolitan city. Its establishment in 1537 by Juan de Salazar marked a blending of culture and customs between the Spanish and indigenous Guaraní. Both languages were preserved, with Guaraní more commonly being spoken in rural areas, and Spanish recognized as the country’s official language.

Over time, Asunción boomed with commerce and trade. Today, it is an important port and home to more than 1.2 million people. The city has become a melting pot of economic prosperity and poverty, of strong social ties and cultural disillusionment, and of increasing nationalism and political instability.

Asunción has many renowned sights that capture the imagination. The Museo de Bellas Artes contains paintings and sculptures by Paraguayan artists while the Cathedral Metropolitana dates back to 1687 and is one of the city’s oldest landmarks. The Palacio de Gobierno is an impressive structure that is not open to the public, but taking pictures of the building is now permitted. Dr. José de Francia’s stringent rule in the early 19th century ordered that anyone caught so much as looking at the palace would be shot or arrested!

The road less traveled in Asunción leads to a variety of adventures. Luque, a suburb on the eastern outskirts of Asunción, is home to a sprawling marketplace spanning several blocks. Vendors sell jewelry, silver, ceramics, clothes and handmade artifacts at unbelievably low prices. National fútbol games are usually held in Estadio de los Defensores del Chaco and radiate with intense energy and emotion. Games are sporadic but the experience is a must. In June, the Festival de San Juan is fervently celebrated with food, games, contests, and fire walking. That’s right...fire walking!

Asunción is one of the lesser known treasures of South America. Its value is defined not by a luxurious appearance, but by the wealth of its people’s character and heart. The fact that it remains undiscovered by most tourists to this day is reason enough why one should go.