Colca Canyon

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Set amidst 6,000 meter peaks that plunge into a lunar-like landscape decorated with rocks, ichu grass and the bizarre-looking yareta plant, the Colca Canyon is famous for its natural beauty, cultural history, and adventure treks. The Collagua and Cabana lived here for nearly 2,000 years, carving a network of remarkable terraces into the canyon walls.

In the 15^th century Inca Mayta Cápac arrived with his army and, according to historians, married Mama Tancaray Yacchi, daughter of a local Collagua chief, to secure the conquest. According to legend, he built Mama Tancaray a house of copper that was eventually melted to make the gigantic bells that hang in Coporague's towers today. When the Spanish arrived, they forced local peoples into reducciones, and put them to work on plantations or in the nearby Caylloma silver mine. In spite of this forced labor, the Collaguas assimilated much of the Spanish culture into their own traditions. In particular, Catholic imagery was absorbed into many of their festivals, and women adopted the Spanish-style petticoat as a form of dress.

Without roads or communications, Colca Canyon was largely forgotten until the late 1970's when engineers visited the canyon to build the area's first road. Due to their relative isolation from the modern world, the people and villages in this region have maintained their ancient traditions and ways of life. A great way to explore the region is on foot, via the numerous ancient trails that wind their way between villages. In 1981, a crew of six Polish adventurers and local rafter Antonio Vellutino discovered another facet of the Colca Canyon: extreme adventure. Today, in addition to its rich cultural heritage, the canyon offers tremendous outdoor adventure opportunities. Along with Cusco and Huaraz, Colca has become known as a magnet for adventure sport, drawing hikers, bikers, trekkers, and rafters from around the world.

At 3,400 meters, Colca Canyon is more than twice as deep as Arizona's Grand Canyon. Travelers usually start off in Arequipa, and make the bumpy four-hour journey across the spectacular Andean landscape. Most of this region is part of the Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, an area of stunning beauty and rich in wildlife. Flamingos, geese, and black-faced Andean gulls lounge in salty lakes, while vicuñas graze in nearby grasslands and vizcachas (despite appearances it’s a rodent not a rabbit), scurry across the rocky landscape. Towering over this natural playground is El Misti, the 5,830 meter peak that draws altitude-hungry trekkers and climbers.

The traditional route from Arequipa climbs as high as 4,700 meters, passing the petroglyphs at Sumbay cave, and crossing the desolate Patapampa plain dotted with mysterious stone piles built by the Collagua. From here, the road drops into Chivay, the gateway to Colca Canyon. From Chivay there are a number of roads that lead into the canyon. Villages on the right (north) side of the canyon are less frequented by tourists, and boast a number of interesting colonial churches. Soloists should bear in mind that the canyon is extremely large, with a lot to offer in terms of sites and activities, so if you want to do a lot, or are limited by time, you may want to consider going with an agency. In most cases, agency deals are cheaper than do-it-yourself travel. If you do decide to travel Lone Ranger-style, it's easy to catch a bus to Chivay or Cabanaconde, and explore the canyon on foot or by colectivo.  Whether traveling with a tour, or independently make sure you bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water. Besides sun exposure, the other threat in this region is soroche, or mountain sickness. If you're not coming from Cusco, stay in Arequipa a few days to acclimatize.

The most popular point to view the canyon is the Cruz del Condór. Look down and you'll see spectacular scenery. Look up, and if you're lucky, you'll see the massive Andean condor sky-surfing thermal waves high above the canyon walls. The best time to spot this elusive bird is early in the morning, preferably between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m. The nearby Tapay lookout is less frequented by tourists, but also seems to be less popular among condors.

There is a $2 entrance fee to the canyon, which is usually not included in agency prices. January to April is the rainy season, when the canyon springs to life with flowers and greenery. The best time to see the birds, however, is from May to December during the cold, dry season.