Cusco Things to See and Do

Following Callejón Loreto to the west of the Plaza de Armas will bring you to the spectacular stone walls of ancient Acclahuasi, or Temple of the Sun Virgins, where the Spanish built the Convent of Santa Catalina in 1610. Today about thirty sisters continue to live and worship here; inside is the Museo de Arte y Monasterio de Santa Catalina. Southeast from the convent, at the intersection of Avenida El Sol and Calle Santa Domingo, is the complex of Qoricancha Templo del Sol and Santo Domingo, a wonderful example of the city’s characteristic mix of Spanish and Inca cultures. Within three minute’s walk of this architectural amalgamation is the Museo de Sitio Qoricancha, which offers an interesting display of various archeological artifacts.

To the southwest of the Plaza de Armas are the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced and the Plaza de San Francisco, where you will find the Museo y Convento de San Francisco. Further to the south is the Central Market, which is known for its quality alpaca goods and antique textiles. Another area of interest lies near the Plaza Regocijo, just a block southwest of the Plaza de Armas. In the southwest corner of the plaza stands the Museo Histórico Regional, the residence of a prolific half-Inca, half-Spanish poet and author, and now the home to pre-Inca ceramics, Inca artifacts and numerous examples of Cusco’s historic art. If you’re in need of a drink but don’t want to stray too far, then follow Calle Santa Teresa from Plaza Regocijo to the House of the Pumas, a small café whose entrance sports six pumas carved by the Spanish during the rebuilding of Cusco. Not far from the café is the Iglesia de Santa Teresa, which features beautiful paintings of St. Teresa, usually illuminated by candlelight.

Wander northeast of the Plaza de Armas, along Calle Córdoba del Tucmán, and you’ll stumble across Plaza Nazarenas, a small and quiet section of town that boasts the Chapel of San Antonio Abad, Museo de Cerámica, and Museo Taller Hilario Mendivil. This area also has four other important attractions: the Museo de Arte Religioso, Hathun Rumiyoq, the most famous Inca passageway in the city; and Iglesia San Blas and San Blas, a bustling artisan neighborhood whose steep cobblestone streets offer fantastic views of the city.

NOTE: Whether or not you plan to visit all the attractions in Cusco, it is worth purchasing the Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turístico General, BTG), which covers many of the historic museums, cathedrals, and ruins in the Cusco area.

The Church and Convent of Mercy was originally built in 1535, making it one of the oldest religious institutions in South America. It was rebuilt after an earthquake destroyed it in 1654, and is still host to the white-robed Order of Mercy priesthood. The impressively designed courtyard and select rooms, all filled with centuries-old religious art (including a 16th century menorah), are open to general public. The wall murals were originally reproductions of Catholic iconography from the order’s home in Seville, Spain, and they include what may be considered a very controversial depiction of the Virgin Mary. This is essential touring for those who want to understand Cusco’s colonial past. Manta 121 ,Tel: 51-84-231-821.

Iglesia San Blas (Entrance: $5.50 or with BTC)

Iglesia San Blas is just one of the Cusco attractions located in the bustling artisan neighborhood of San Blas. Built in 1563, Iglesia San Blas is thought to be one of the oldest parishes in Cusco. Although unremarkable from the outside, this small, white-washed adobe church houses, one of the most exquisite examples of woodcarving in the world. Carved in a churrigueresque style from a single tree trunk, the famous cedar pulpit features intricately carved images of the Virgin Mary, apostles, cherubs, a sun-disc and bunches of grapes. Perhaps as interesting as the pulpit is the story that accompanies it. According to legend (you’ll have to decide for yourself if it’s true), the carpenter who created the pulpit’s skull was placed inside the masterpiece, at the top beneath St. Paul’s feet. While you’re looking for the skull (let us know if you find it!) be sure to check out the baroque gold-leaf main altar.

Palacio Arzobispal / Museo de Arte Religioso

For art aficionados and architecture fiends alike, the Museo de Arte Religioso is one of the most interesting spots in the city. Like many other attractions in Cusco, the museum sports a rich cultural history that appears in both the architecture outside and artwork inside.

The museum itself is located inside the Palacio Arzobispal, which sits adjacent to Hatunrumiyoc, a magnificent pedestrian alleyway lined with Inca stone masonry. The name Hatun Rumiyoc means “Street with the Big Stone,” which is a reference to the massive 12-sided stone situated perfectly in the center of the wall. Originally the site of Inca Roca palace, the building has also served as the residence of the former Spanish marquis and the Archbishop of Cusco.

Today, this building houses a collection of colonial religious paintings. One room in particular is filled with paintings by Marcos Zapata, an 18th century mestizo artist whose work often mixed indigenous elements with religious themes. In addition to the artwork, you’re sure to admire the Moorish-style doors, ornately carved cedar ceilings and spectacular stained-glass windows. For a breath of fresh air, step out into the courtyard, adorned with blue and white tiles from Seville. Monday-Saturday, 8-11:30 a.m., 3-5:30 p.m., Corner of Hatun Rumiyoc and Palacio, Tel: 51-8-422-5211.

Q’enqo (Entrance: $10 or with BTC)

The temple and amphitheater ruins of Q’enqo are located east of the giant white statue of Christ, perched on the hill next to Sacsayhuamán, and are only about a 20-minute walk from the famous fortress ruins. The Q’engo ruins derive their name from the Quechua word meaning “zig-zag,” a reference to the series of perfectly carved channels adorning the upper western edge of the temple’s stone. In ancient times these channels probably flowed with chichi, sacrificial llama blood used by priests during annual fertility festivals and solstice and equinox celebrations. In addition to the channels, Q’enqo sports a series of intricately carved designs, including steps, seats, geometric reliefs, pumas and condors. The hollowed-out limestone outcropping which comprises the main altar emphasizes the importance of the Rock Cult in Inca cosmological beliefs, and similar rock carvings can be found throughout the surrounding foothills. The complex also offers visitors the opportunity to explore a series of caves and tunnels beneath the rock. If you’re up for a walk, you can also access the ruins of Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay from here. Near Sacsayhuamán ruins, to get there follow the signs posted on the main road from Sacsayhuamán.

Puca Pucara (Entrance: $7 or with BTC)

Though perhaps the least impressive of the ruins around Cusco, Puca Pucara offers stunning views of the Cusco Valley and glaciers to the south. Located about 11 kilometers outside the city, right beside the main Cusco-Pisac road, the ruins can also be reached via a one to two hour cross-country walk uphill from Sacsayhuamán and Q’enqo. In Quechua its name means Red Fort, and the complex was probably used by Emperor Pachacútec as a tambo, or out-of-town lodge. It’s likely that the Emperor’s court was stationed here when the Emperor came to visit the nearby baths of Tambo Machay. Beneath the complex there are several chambers to explore; the platform on top offers spectacular views. To get there go 11 kilometers from Cusco down the Cusco-Pisac road.

Tambo Machay (Entrance: $10 or with BTC)

Located just a 15-meter walk along a sign-posted path from the main road past Puca Pucara, Tambo Machay ruins are one of the more impressive examples of Inca baths, which can be found at nearly every important Inca temple, including Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Machu Picchu. Water was worshipped by the Incas as a vital life element, and the painstakingly carved network of aqueducts and canals that comprise these baths are a reminder of their fascination with water. The complex consists of three tiered platforms which ingeniously channel spring water into three impressive waterfalls. All of the waterworks still function today. The quality of stonework indicates that the site was probably restricted to higher nobility, who might have used the baths only on ceremonial occasions. The site also has an impressive Inca wall that rises above the ceremonial niches. Near Puca Pucara.

Pikillacta and Rumicolca (Entrance: $7 or with BTC)

Much of the ancient Inca’s organizational expertise and city planning abilities originated from the pre-Inca Huari Empire, which dominated the lands of Peru from 500 to 1000 A.D. An interesting example of Huari engineering is Rumicolca, an ancient aqueduct poised on a valley along the side of the highway, about 32 kilometers (22 miles) from Cusco. After their rise to power, the Incas converted this ancient water channel into a massive gateway to Cusco. Not far from Rumicolca is Pikillacta, the largest provincial outpost ever built by the Ayacucho-based Huari and one of the only pre-Inca sites of importance near Cusco. Were it not included on the Cusco Tourist Ticket, this 47-hectare, adobe-walled compound might go unnoticed; and, it affords visitors a great opportunity to check out pre-Inca architecture. Though little is known about the site’s history, we can tell you that the little turquoise figurines displayed in Cusco’s Museo Inka, were discovered here.

Gringo Alley

Taxis won’t drive up it, and you’ll have a hard time finding your hotel if it’s on it, but for some reason the tight, narrow cobblestoned street, Calle Procuradores, just off the west side of Plaza de Armas is known among locals as “Gringo Alley.” Unless your hostel is down the alley, you’re likely to pass by the unassuming entrance, which looks like a barren road. But take a stroll down and you will find a handful of charming hostels, a slew of authentic artisanal shops, several internet cafes and a few great, mouth-watering, mid-range restaurants and bars you won’t want to miss. Its tall colonial buildings and narrow streets capture the air of old Europe. Calle Procuradores leads to a maze of small, seemingly endless alleys where you’ll find even more shops and hotels. The nickname, Gringo Alley may be a bit deceiving since it’s not really all gringos; in fact, it’s less gringo than the tourist glitz of Plaza de Armas. So, what makes this quaint sector a gringo zone exactly? Well, it is where gringos have been going in recent years to get away from the hustle of the Plaza de Armas and, of course, it has a steady flow of tourists. Whoever started this trend was on to something--it’s close to everything a tourist needs, but feels more like a piece of San Blas.