Inca Trail Porters

By Lorraine Caputo

You've waited so long to trek these rugged 43 kilometers to that Incan Holy Grail, Machu Picchu. But after two days, your feel muscles you never knew existed, another blister is welling up. As you momentarily rest on a rock, gasping for breath in this rarefied air, you see one of the porters striding smoothly by you, on his way to set up this night's camp for you and the others. Almost like The Motorcycle Diaries.

The lot of the porter changed with new regulations instituted in 2002. Before, it was not uncommon for one to carry 45 kilos, sleep under mere plastic and a blanket, receive the trekkers' leftovers or cook for himself, be paid only four dollars per day. Frequently porters would have to cut firewood to keep warm and eat, thus aumenting deforestation.

Now the load limit is 25 kilograms (20 of trekkers' equipment, five for the porter's personal effects). The minimum wage is 35 soles per day. Unfortunately, some tour companies are getting around the new regulations by paying 15 soles per day (to be able to offer you a bargain price), and making trekkers carry their own packs across the weigh-in spot, then shifting the weight to the porters or denying porters their personal allowance.

Porters are the work horses of the trek—but they should not be treated that way. As consumers, we have responsibilities to ensure porters' fair treatment. How can you help to make sure the regulations are followed?

• Familiarize yourself with the regulations of the Inka Trail; see http://www.andeantravelweb.com/peru/treks/incatrail_regulations.html.

• Ask the tour company how much porters are paid, and if they are provided with food and proper camping equipment. Make clear your concern for the porters' welfare.

• If don't like the answers, look for a different company or hire your own porter. You'll be supporting the local economy by providing employment.

• Ask the company precisely what equipment you are expected to take (sleeping bag, etc.—and, of course, warm clothing, canteen, etc.). Leave all unnecessary items stowed at your hostel. Don't unnecessarily weigh down the porter.

• During the trip, remember common courtesies. Learn a little Quechua. Thank them. Share your coca leaves.

• Talk with them about their lives and culture. Ask them to sing. Share photos of your family or homeland with them.

• Pool tips for the porters with other travellers; 20-25 soles total per porter is fair. If you feel like giving a higher tip, donate money to projects supporting porters rights or their communities.

Mistreatment of porters should not be shrugged off with "Well, that is the way things are in these countries."

• File complaints with MINCETUR (Ministerio de Comercio Exterior y Turismo), Avenida de la Cultura 734, 3rd floor; Telephone: 51-84-241-508, FAX: 51-84-223-761, webmaster@mincetur.gob.pe, www.dirceturcusco.gob.pe; 7:30 a.m.- 12:45 p.m., 2:15-4:30 p.m.

• If you are a member, inform the South American Explorers Club.

• Drop line to us here at Viva Travel Guides, or make a posting on our site to share your experience with others.

To learn more about the porters' life, read the BBC’s Inca Trail Porter Photo Journal (americas_inca_trail_porter). The Inka Porter Project (http://www.peruweb.org/porters) has information about porters' rights.