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Characterized by sprawling, traffic infested streets lined with barking men and women selling their brightly colored crafts, the city of Puno lacks the grace and charm of its vastly more attractive neighbor, Lake Titicaca. Were it not for the dozens of tour agencies lining Puno's dusty streets, the placid shores of this natural gem may be all but swallowed up by the sites and sounds of a bustling city. Indeed, it's slightly ironic that the Quechua named for this hectic city translates to, "place of rest."
Honking buses and pedestrian packed streets aside, Puno has a number of redeeming qualities, which make it a great place to start any trip to Lake Titicaca and the surrounding area. As the central hub for lake excursions and trips to more attractive destinations, Puno has a number of hotels, restaurants, and tour agencies to accommodate almost any traveler's tastes and needs. A recently built bus station now serves as a connection point for all major bus companies, and is conveniently located within walking distance of the port, from where you can catch a boat to Isla Amantaní and Isla Taquile.
Dominated by the Aymara to the south and Quechua to the north, Puno was shaped by the confluence of two notably different cultural currents. Referred to by some as the folklore capital of the world, Puno boasts some of the most fascinating and vibrant folklore festivals. Three major festivals are unique to the city, and include Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria, Puno Week, and Adoración del Sol. Perhaps the most interesting attraction in Puno lies just outside the city limits. The Yavari is one of the world’s great antique ships, and the story of how it came to rest in Puno is almost as interesting as the ship itself.
Within the city there are a number of interesting attractions, all within walking distance of one another. If you’re feeling particularly energetic, spend the day exploring the city on foot. Gracing the Plaza de Armas is the city's 17th century cathedral, whose elaborately carved façade gives way to a rather spartan interior accented by a brilliant silver-plated altar. Next to the cathedral is another 17th century relic, the Casa del Corregidor. There is an inviting courtyard on the grounds, where javaholics can savor a coffee from one of Puno’s most delightful cafes.
From the Plaza de Armas you can head towards Parque Huajsapata where you’ll find a massive mirador with a huge sculpture of Manco Cápac, the first Inca. Be aware, however, that a number of robbery assaults on single tourists have been reported here. Up the street from the plaza, on the corner of Conde de Lemos and Deustua, is the Balcony of the Conde de Lemos, former residence of Peru's viceroy and the current home of the Cultural Institute of Peru. Across the street you'll find the Museo Dreyer Municipal, which has a collection of pre-Inca and Inca artifacts and documents citing the history of the Spanish foundation of Peru.
From the museum, head downhill two blocks to Puno's pedestrian street, Lima, which connects the Plaza de Armas to Parque Pino. Here you can refuel at some of the city's best restaurants and cafes. Parque Pino boasts an 18th century church dedicated to San Juan Bautista, and home of the Virgen de Candelaria, Puno’s most important patron saint. From the park, you can head towards the Arco Deustua, a huge stone arch built in honor of those killed in battles for independence in Junín and Ayacucho.
If city-sightseeing isn't your cup of tea, you can always head towards the lake, where you can meander through Puno’s huge central market, or catch a boat to one of Lake Titicaca's islands. Active travelers may want to inquire about kayaking on Lake Titicaca, or horseback riding in the valley just north of Puno. A number of companies in Puno offer island tours to Isla Uros, Islas Taquile and Amantaní, Islas Anapia and Yuspique, and Isla Suasi. You can also arrange a visit to nearby attractions like Sillustani and Chucuito.
For free tourist information and maps head to i Peru (Deustua with Lima, Tel :51-365-088, 8:30 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. daily). Or, for more detailed information pay a visit to the Regional Tourism Office (Ayacucho 682, Tel: 51-364-976, Monday - Friday, 7:30 a.m. - 5:15 p.m.).
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