The heart of Lima is found in its historic center. Once an Inca city of some importance, Lima became a major city under the Spanish, who decided to establish a port here. Although their first efforts at building a city on the site were destroyed in a 1746 earthquake, the city was rebuilt and today is home to some of the most impressive architecture in the Americas.
Any visitor to Lima will probably visit the historical center at some point. All of the important churches, monasteries, and plazas are located there, as well as many of the most interesting museums. There are also a number of hotels and hostals, the most interesting of which are stately colonial homes that have been converted to hotels. The backpacker set in particular will find Central Lima's hotels affordable and unique.
Although there is every reason to go to the central city, for historic sites and government offices, it is truly a horrible place to visit. The traffic is obscene, the noise deafening, the environment so polluted that a bath is a must after every visit, and the roving bands of thieves simply make it dangerous. Once you get to know the area the shopping is amazing (the craft mall near the government palace is the only place to buy gifts and the bootleg book market is just a fun place to be) but in both places expect to be followed by young men looking for a chance to grab anything you make available.
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