Huancabamba Overview

By Lorraine Caputo

Heading east from the Panamericana, the land stretches flat for hours and kilometers. Ahead, between the folds of the mountains is Huacabamba. This road is mostly unpaved and it is necessary to ford a river. (In the wet season, small boats take passengers across to a waiting bus.) Soon, the road will be paved all the way to Huancabamba and beyond, to the new copper mines at Río Blanco.

Huancabamba is called the "City that Walks"—or, in local tongue Ciudad Resbalabamba (Slipping City). The town is built on a stratum of rock that is slowly sliding towards the river. Since at least the mid-19th Century, there has been talk of relocating the village to more stable ground. People are now building higher up the hillside. Like any colonial-era town, the major buildings are around the Plaza de Armas. Along one side is the village church, Iglesia San Pedro, which is pretty colorful against the mountain backdrop. The Plaza and church gardens are full of topiary, shrubs sculpted into animals (including a band of critters playing in front of the church). In the center of the Plaza is a statue of La Samaritana, who represents the hospitality shown by the Huancabambinos. The region abounds with ruins of the former inhabitants. The most noteworthy is the Templo de los Jaguares. Many of the stone roads the Spaniards used yet connect Huancabamba with Cabeza, Socha and other settlements. The most important spot is the Lagunas de las Huaringas, a traditional center for shamanism.

According to Dr. Felipe Paz Soldán, the name comes from Aymara. Huancas means large stones and pampa signifies plains. According to Incan chronicles written by Garcilaso de la Vega, the Huancabamba region was inhabited by an “empire of peoples of many languages and nations” who supposedly practiced cannibalism. Even though these peoples lived separately, they successfully captured an army sent by Inca Túpac Yupanqui. The Inca ruler decided to come himself with a force of more than 40,000 soldiers. Finally the nations here were conquered and many forced into relocation villages (miqmaqs). The Inca incorporated it into the Chinchay Suyo quadrant of the empire.

Spanish Captain Hernando de Soto and his soldiers followed the stone roads to Huancabamba and settled in the region. During the colonial period this was an important stop on trade routes. It earned a reputation as a hospitable town. When the cry for independence rose, Huancabambinos fervently joined the fight. The municipality was formally decreed by Libertador José de San Martín in 1821.

The village still opens its doors to visitors who come to have a healing ceremony done by the region’s renowned healers. Lodging and dining options are basic, but sincere. Spend a while to explore the many natural and cultural wonders tucked into the valleys of this stretch of the Andes.

(Altitude: 1957 meters / 6360 feet, Population: 14,000, Phone Code: 073)