Arequipa

Arequipa Convent. Photo by Freyja Ellis

Peruvian Girl. Photo by Freyja Ellis

In a high valley at an altitude of 2,380 meters (7740 feet), shimmering under a deep azure sky, sits Peru’s “Second City,” Arequipa. Bathed in more than 300 days of sunshine annually, a more hospitable climate would be hard to find. In fact, the Incan forbearers at the site supposedly quipped in their native Quechua, “Ari, quepay,” which means, “Yes, stay.” More likely, the name came from the Aymara words “ari” (peak) and “kipa” (near the mountain). That mountain would be El Misti (the gentleman), which towers over the city like a sentinel and has become its enduring symbol. The regal volcano stands at 5,822 meters (19,098 ft.) and with its snow-capped, perfect cone, dominates a magnificent view, which also includes the mountain Chachani (6,075 meters, 19,931 ft.) and the volcano Pichu-Pichu (5,669 m, 17,798 ft.). The fertile Arequipa valley has been inhabited for between 7,000 and 8,000 years and was “established” in 1540 as one of the earliest and most important colonial settlements. Arequipa soon became a critical junction in the huge overland shipments of silver from the mines of Potosí, Bolivia. Some of that wealth managed to remain in Arequipa, evidenced today by remnants of colonial splendor.

Glinting in the noon-day sun, “La Ciudad Blanca” (White City) cuts a striking image. Almost all of Arequipa’s colonial buildings were constructed of sillar, a chalky white volcanic rock, that besides its luster is a stalwart rock in an earthquake-prone area. A rich architectural legacy is apparent in Arequipa, with the fusion of European and indigenous building styles. A visitor will find a wealth of buildings with ornate Baroque facades, stout walls, archways and courtyards.

The central Plaza de Armas is considered one of the most strikingly beautiful in Peru and all of South America. Showcasing an ornamental fountain, dotted with swaying palms and ringed by colonial buildings, it is a delightful space to relax and watch the locals and tourists serenely go about their business. At the north end of the Plaza is the magnificent Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa, which was rebuilt in 1656 after being destroyed by earthquake. A more recent massive earthquake struck on June 23, 2001 and severely damaged the Cathedral; its twin spires (one of which collapsed) have since been restored. Aiding the reconstruction effort was the fact that in December 2000, UNESCO declared the historical center of Arequipa a World Heritage Site. Incidentally, this author arrived in Arequipa just one day after the devastating quake to find a city in mourning but already rebuilding as it had resolutely done so many times before.

One of the true gems of Arequipa is the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, built in 1580. The sprawling monastery with narrow corridors and brightly-hued walls cloistered hundreds of nuns and attendants until 1970, when it was it finally opened to the public (only 20 nuns currently remain). Though “cloistered,” throughout most of those centuries the nuns hardly lived an ascetic or austere lifestyle. Many had personal servants, and the nuns hosted musical performances, gave parties and generally lived lavishly. Each family paid a hefty dowry to admit their daughter to the convent. Sor Ana de los Angeles was a nun at Santa Catalina who came to prominence in the 17th century. She was believed to be prescient and performed extraordinary healings both during and after her life. Sor Ana’s body was exhumed 10 months after death and had allegedly not decomposed. After her death, many afflicted individuals were healed upon devoting themselves to Sor Ana, or touching an object that had belonged to her. In 1985, Pope John Paul II visited the monastery for the beatification of Sor Ana.

From this author’s perspective, the “Second City” of Peru should be one of the first stops. You just may succumb to the beauty and delightful climate of La Ciudad Blanca that has enticed so many others to “Yes, stay.”