Haciendas in Peru

Hotel

By Dr. Crit Minster

Like the rest of Latin America, Peru was once home to many haciendas, elegant country estate homes owned by wealthy citizens during the colonial and republican periods. Some haciendas were administrative centers from which a single family could rule up to dozens of indigenous villages like medieval dukes. Although historically linked to oppression and exploitation of indigenous society, there is no denying that the stately buildings, often with balconies, gardens, stables and courtyards, are tranquil, beautiful and well worth a visit.

In some countries, such as Ecuador, many old colonial and Republican haciendas have been turned into first-rate guest homes, offering horseback riding, traditional food and elegant accommodations. Unfortunately for Peru, many of the country's most attractive haciendas were taken over by the government between 1968 and 1972, during the agrarian reforms of President Juan Velasco. Many of the best haciendas were given over to cooperatives, which allowed them to deteriorate into rubble, and some were looted and burned. In the best of cases, the marvelous old buildings were merely neglected.

A few haciendas have survived, however, and their owners are learning what Ecuador learned decades ago: restored haciendas make great hotels. One of the best is Hacienda San José in Chincha, first established as a sugarcane plantation in 1688.  Its owners managed to keep it during the Velasco administration and converted it into a hotel and restaurant soon after.

Due to the booming tourism industry in Peru, many old haciendas are being refurbished and marketed as hotels. Areas of high tourist traffic are seeing more and more of them, especially the Sacred Valley near Cusco.

A stay at a converted hacienda can be a highlight of any trip to Peru. There is something magical about staying at a place that has been around for centuries, especially if it has been nicely refurbished. Most of the haciendas in Peru are in the upper-middle price range: expect to pay roughly $70/night for a double for a hacienda stay. Many offer a wide range of activities, from mountain biking to horseback riding, and all offer tranquil garden paths, beautiful rooms and scenery, terraces and gardens. If a stay at a colonial hacienda is within your budget, it is certainly worth it to check one out.