Huaraz

This little town perched at 3,028 meters is a trekking and climbing mecca, drawing a milieu of international outdoor enthusiasts every year. The town itself, with its jumble of concrete buildings and muddy rivers, is a bit rough around the edges, but peek behind its ragged façade and you’re bound to discover a number of charming hotels, restaurants and coffee houses.

The main focus of the area is the Callejón de Huaylas, the section of the Río Santa valley separating the Cordillera Negra to the west from the Cordillera Blanca to the east. A paved road cuts through the length of the valley, linking villages and providing access to the area’s three famed cordilleras: Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Negra, and Cordillera Huayhuash. With a bit of gusto and common sense it’s entirely possible to show up without equipment and immediately head off on a trek or climb. Be watchful, however, for con artists and phony guides eager to swindle unsuspecting tourists.

Despite its rather drab appearance Huaraz has friendly, outgoing locals and an undeniably festive atmosphere. The Plaza de Armas is often blocked off for children’s parades, marinera dance contests and military formations. Luzuriaga, the town’s main street, has the greatest concentration of restaurants, gear shops and agencies. More establishments can be found farther north on either side of Río Quilcay. During Peruvian holidays, when the town overflows with limeños, prices rise along with the town’s population; beware of overcharging.

While you acclimatize (and even the most Herculean of individuals should take at least two days before embarking on any mountain excursion) you can explore the streets or duck into one of the town’s museums. The Museo Regional de Ancash houses artifacts from the Recuay, Wari, Chimu and Inca cultures. Art fanatics should head to the Sala de Cultura in Banco Wiese (Sucre 766), which has interesting art and photography exhibitions by local artists (free!). Uphill from the plaza is the Iglesia Soledad, which survived the 1970 earthquake that nearly leveled the entire city. A few good hotels are located up here, in addition to some of the best views of the Cordillera Blanca and sunsets over the Cordillera Negra.

For more spectacular views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, head to the Mirador Rataquenua, which is marked by a giant cross. This is a popular acclimatization hike, taking about an hour from town. To get there, walk up Villón or Confraternidad Este to the cemetery and turn right, following the switchbacks that crisscross through the forest. If you’re keen for a bit more walking, continue uphill to Pukaventana, where you’ll find even more spectacular views of the valley. There have been reports of armed hold-ups at Mirador, so always travel in a group.

The nearby ruins of Willkawaín also make an excellent day trip. From Huaraz you can organize a number of adventure sport activities, including mountain biking, rafting and kayaking, birdwatching, fishing, horseback riding, paragliding, skiing, rock and ice climbing, hiking and trekking, and sightseeing tours—you name it and Huaraz probably has it. The town is also a base for excursions to Cordilleras Blanca, Negra and Huayhuash, Parque Nacional Huascarán, Lagunas Llanganuco and the ancient Chavín capital of Chavín de Huántar. If you’re keen to touch ice, but aren’t quite up to the physical demands of a full on climb, then check out the Pastoruri glacier. Note: As of early 2008 this glacier has been closed to the public due to conflicts between the local communities and the National Park. It is unknown when it will reopen.

Basic tourist information can be found at Policía de Turismo, located in a small alley between the post office and the Municipalidad (Tel. 51-43-721-341, ext. 315, Monday - Friday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. - 7 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.). Always keep an eye on your backpack and be careful where you eat: Huaraz is known for its food poisoning as well as its adventure sports.

Read here on how to get to Huaraz