A 45-minute bus ride north of Leymebamba is the village of Yerbabuena straddling the highway. During the week it is a dusty backwater. But come Sunday, it bustles to life with the region’s largest market. All services in this hamlet are located along the “main street”: the only hospedaje, several restaurants, the public health center, drugstores and telephone offices. There is no bank or internet. Near the north end of town is the turn-off that leads past the municipal buildings, the basic church, and on to Revash.

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