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A lost jewel of a colonial city, Ayacucho is a flourishing cultural community located in the remote Peruvian Andes. Although it is a favorite of Peruvians, it is often overlooked by tourists, who are put off by the difficult roads that lead there. Those who do make the journey, however, are amply rewarded: the city is packed with colonial churches and cathedrals, is conveniently located near Inca ruins, and boasts some of the best markets and most interesting local cuisine in Peru.
The peaceful, relaxed atmopshere that pervades the city's streets and squares is a far cry from the tulmultuous Ayacucho of days gone by. During the 1980s and 1990s the city was the site of bloody fighting between the government and the Shining Path, Maoist revolutionaries led by Abimael Guzmán, a philosophy professor who worked in the city. Recently, however, the city seems to have shaken off its violent past and, thanks to municipal investment in colonial preservation, emerged a stronger, more brilliant city.
Surrounded by artisan villages and home to one of the oldest universities in the Americas, the city has rapidly developed into a popular cultural center. Among its local traditoins, Ayacucho is famous for hosting one of the most important Holy Week festivals in all of Peru. In the ten days leading up to Easter Sunday, Ayacucho transforms into a city of flowered streets, processions, fireworks, dancing, and more. Peruvians and foreigners alike flood the city and all of the hotels are sold out: if you intend to attend, be sure to make arrangements (including transportation!) in advance.
The city is also a great place to explore on foot. With an abundance of Renaissance and baroque churches, colonial homes and interesting museums, the city is sure to keep you busy. To see everything Ayacucho has to offer, you're best to rise early, eat a hearty breakfast, and be sure to put on your walking shoes. Highlights of any city walk include: Santo Domingo, Santa teresa, San Cristóbal, La Universidad San Cristobal de Huamanga, Museo de Arte Popular, and Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue. The lookout at Cerro Acuchimay also offers excellent views of the city from above. Even if you can't cover all the sites above, you should definitely head to Barrio Santa Ana, a bustling artisan community graced with cobblestone streets and plenty of craft workshops.
When you've had your fill of Ayacucho's seemingly infinite sites, you can head to the Inca ruins of Vilcashuamán, once an important provinical capital. Tours of Vilcashuamán, and nearby Inca baths at Intihuatana, can be arranged with agencies in Ayacucho. The ruins at Huari also make for an interesting day trip, and can be combined with a visit to La Quinua, a small village sitting 37 kilometers northeast of Ayacucho, which boasts some excellent handicrafts.
There is a small selection of hotels in Ayacucho, although there are options in every budget category. Many of the rates are quite reasonable, even at the fancier places. Be ware that rates will go up by as much as three times during holy week.
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