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Islas Ballestas

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Just north of the Paracas Peninsula sits the popular wildlife retreat of Islas Ballestas. As visitors are not allowed on the islands, the focus of any trip to this area is a 1.5 to 2 hour boat tour of the islands, starting at 8 a.m. The islands are part of the Paracas National Reserve, which is just about two-thirds ocean. These ocean beauties supply visitors with ample views of resident wildlife, including endangered turtles, Humboldt penguins, Peruvian boobies, red boobies, pelicans, turkey vultures and red-footed cormorants.

Some have gone as far as calling the Islas Ballestas the “Peruvian Galápagos,” though in reality this is probably a bit of a misnomer. About 110 species of migratory and resident sea birds have been documented on the islands, and the area is a rest stop along the Alaska-Patagonia migration route. The high level of bird traffic on the islands is what prompted locals to give the islands another nickname: las islas guaneras.  

The hundreds of thousands of birds that come to roost on the islands leave behind their own unique mark: massive amounts of guano. Containing 20 times more nitrogen than cow manure, these bird droppings make excellent fertilizer and during the mid-19th century massive amounts were harvested from the islands. Today the Peruvian government operates a program to ensure sustainable guano removal. Besides nitrogen-rich aves-excrement, the islands are also home to penguins, seals and sea lions.

In the summer months, from January to March, baby sea lions are born and the islands swell with new life. Lucky travelers may catch a glimpse of dolphins, humpbacked whales, or even more rarely, Andean condors. The route to the islands passes the famous Candelabro. This candelabra-like drawing carved into the cliff jutting out of the bay resembles something taken out of the Nazca lines.

Nearly 126 meters long and 72 meters wide (413 feet by 236 feet), this large-scale rock carving is shrouded in as much mystery as its desert cousins. According to some, the carving was a ritualistic symbol originating from the Paracas or Nazca cultures, while others stipulate that it only dates back to the 18th or 19th centuries. Either way, the drawing and its remarkable backdrop make for an excellent travel opportunity.

The malecon at the dock has several seafood restaurants, street performers and good handicrafts with unusual natural gems, fossils and even sea lion fangs for sale.

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